tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43493969011561569172024-03-19T02:44:01.665-07:00bcr paddlebcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.comBlogger38125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-38031669959125198422007-07-27T16:12:00.000-07:002007-08-27T18:40:36.411-07:00Skagway, End of the Line<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcjdpw6iCPgwErQvP4YeSOzCY2hcF_mICPZxpBasusWx0iYVsRtLCqq-hvBIp_W9Vongq9kOYtAydw3wAtVUGgcw8hN3oyXigGscLKJFNzOrLN2DNNxjmYepLULoWOHvMG6-u0rEt7osw/s1600-h/IMGP0901.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5092293162252223010" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcjdpw6iCPgwErQvP4YeSOzCY2hcF_mICPZxpBasusWx0iYVsRtLCqq-hvBIp_W9Vongq9kOYtAydw3wAtVUGgcw8hN3oyXigGscLKJFNzOrLN2DNNxjmYepLULoWOHvMG6-u0rEt7osw/s320/IMGP0901.JPG" border="0" /></a> Perfect weather into Skagway this morning--calm with a mix of sun and clouds. I found myself paddling slowly and putting off the arrival into town. In fact, when I got to the last point of land around which is the Skagway harbor, I stopped, pulled out my gorp, and spent 10 minutes out there snacking. Then I rounded the corner, paddled past the cruise ship and into the marina. No bands were playing and no one was paying any attention to me. I paddled up to the dock next to the boat launch and began the post-trip de-rigging. It seems anti-climactic, but really, it's just the end of a week-long party on my part. I think I've been going through the end-of-trip process since Juneau--the last time I'll have to re-pack food, the last time I'll have to hang my food at night, the last time I have to raise the tarp, the last time I'll have to use the tent... And Skagway is the last time I'll have to unload the boat. </div><div><br /> </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiAr7nxRUZvWgH6FBmZm1p51Q7XoCD4LtrZHnJmiI-HaGmCc6l-rLi23jRzUV9LUH5dbQROqWv18p9DUQb9klHYeN2yokGbV-PdprsebEyo_X3bNimXCk5MHJ-8DqEfavEcDK0txkWJ74/s1600-h/IMGP0909.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5092291439970337298" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiAr7nxRUZvWgH6FBmZm1p51Q7XoCD4LtrZHnJmiI-HaGmCc6l-rLi23jRzUV9LUH5dbQROqWv18p9DUQb9klHYeN2yokGbV-PdprsebEyo_X3bNimXCk5MHJ-8DqEfavEcDK0txkWJ74/s320/IMGP0909.JPG" border="0" /></a>Skagway is also the place where I first looked at the bottom of my boat, and it's been scarred by the trip. Nothing serious, but all the gelcoat is gone in one spot from dragging the boat on shore. </div><div><br /></div><div>So now it's time to get on with the rest of my life, I guess. Carlie flies in tomorrow (!) and we catch the ferry on Monday and arrive in Bellingham on Friday. And normalcy no doubt will return to my life.</div><div><br /> </div><div>I want to thank everyone who has been reading my ramblings and especially those who have commented or emailed me. I feel like you've been on the trip with me, and your company has been much appreciated.</div><div><br /> </div><div>I'm sure I'll post here again, but not sure when. I expect to get my journal onto the computer so anyone who might be planning a similar trip can get more details of my trip, but that will take a few weeks.</div><div><br /> </div><div>Feel free to write <a href="mailto:rimbeaux@aol.com">rimbeaux@aol.com</a>.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYUz8MquEx-ovtAo12mIgqk2kaN2RWhniB9xOjW0Ambimerjrf0cL9wykG9cyyv1Y4OAXZ5zgQg-wZn0Sjz-P5P_KJVKvhouZUnQtolvZ0gg7D3xL6qIwyGtJkHvy84b1KjEdApS51Y5o/s1600-h/IMGP0911.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5103559181671674786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYUz8MquEx-ovtAo12mIgqk2kaN2RWhniB9xOjW0Ambimerjrf0cL9wykG9cyyv1Y4OAXZ5zgQg-wZn0Sjz-P5P_KJVKvhouZUnQtolvZ0gg7D3xL6qIwyGtJkHvy84b1KjEdApS51Y5o/s320/IMGP0911.JPG" border="0" /></a></div>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-48655642496207613042007-07-25T21:29:00.000-07:002007-07-26T11:41:40.407-07:00Haines, July 25, Day 84<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FmKmGDVFWRANSSuh9yPxmlZbigoc_qk4hbB4OprYSQbAykMvbvvO4fKys1DNHKAXsczdVUlDAaXUWhE4KatzJjAnmCOXXj-enYw0Onu7jY34ls77Ep4e9zi3GyEJtudq5R_kzC_Gsrs/s1600-h/IMGP0834.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5091575756684902882" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FmKmGDVFWRANSSuh9yPxmlZbigoc_qk4hbB4OprYSQbAykMvbvvO4fKys1DNHKAXsczdVUlDAaXUWhE4KatzJjAnmCOXXj-enYw0Onu7jY34ls77Ep4e9zi3GyEJtudq5R_kzC_Gsrs/s320/IMGP0834.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcml_GBkEWYLf68xtFuOMCDTrK4e5KPAh2QCIpigiJ3Y6M3SsQQ8WcciTx0r4cZmnk_Y1djrMs1QV_axGK1HDWyAzuKIiFIkINBte0Bds0sxW29OT8QB5E9YY_epJGeUnvuWbZPbpp1v4/s1600-h/IMGP0832.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5091575765274837490" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcml_GBkEWYLf68xtFuOMCDTrK4e5KPAh2QCIpigiJ3Y6M3SsQQ8WcciTx0r4cZmnk_Y1djrMs1QV_axGK1HDWyAzuKIiFIkINBte0Bds0sxW29OT8QB5E9YY_epJGeUnvuWbZPbpp1v4/s320/IMGP0832.JPG" border="0" /></a>One more paddling day left, sports fans!</div><div><br /> </div><div>I've had a real mix of weather on this last leg from Juneau to Haines. It started in fog as I tried to negotiate the tidelands of the Mendenhall Bar for 2 hours, followed by beautiful sunshine the rest of the day. Then 2 days of cloud, rain, and 15-20 knot winds that, luckily were at my back. I did alter my route somewhat to stay out of the biggest seas, and I'm glad I did have alternate routes to turn to. Then today the winds died to nothing, and I had a beautiful paddle into Haines with spectacular views of steep mountain ranges and glaciers in every direction. Even the camping on this stretch has been good and the sites plentiful. Nice change from earlier in the trip.<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcnW4M3z-GgVjNKi995MX3bXuP25pI5DKBwviYNHSuS8AdBHBOHBVImiQpIx4NgXiTtsb1rn-jkXWI8-2POinACWAolluaDBWnni9UZFWfbQBVTvEl9lbNgimwaHe1cldwTPHXSah0Pao/s1600-h/IMGP0857.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5091575739505033682" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcnW4M3z-GgVjNKi995MX3bXuP25pI5DKBwviYNHSuS8AdBHBOHBVImiQpIx4NgXiTtsb1rn-jkXWI8-2POinACWAolluaDBWnni9UZFWfbQBVTvEl9lbNgimwaHe1cldwTPHXSah0Pao/s320/IMGP0857.JPG" border="0" /></a>With the end of the trip in sight, I find myself thinking about what this trip has meant for me. And, as usual, I don't have a good answer. If only I had found god, or denounced god, or renounced my evil ways, or something grand. But no, I'm still me, and I doubt Carlie or anyone else will recognize a change in me. But I will value my family, friends and strangers more, and, of course, the creature comforts of house and home. And I will be proud to have covered the distance I did, just as a cyclist would be, having ridden from coast to coast. There's something about connecting the whole length that gives the trip significance to me.<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBQBMKWrU49BJl-sYSRkppWz9sV6u0bsQ3TjfQxFxd5H7CVj9CgF6Er6Z-Y72HlQmKT67E0sTQPxSpFbQG5h8dVXVLPssUgYI8kVkMbzyeGDElYQzr1SNVj8FlUYGp0xywX0fUHlk0wY/s1600-h/IMGP0877.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5091573252718969282" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBQBMKWrU49BJl-sYSRkppWz9sV6u0bsQ3TjfQxFxd5H7CVj9CgF6Er6Z-Y72HlQmKT67E0sTQPxSpFbQG5h8dVXVLPssUgYI8kVkMbzyeGDElYQzr1SNVj8FlUYGp0xywX0fUHlk0wY/s320/IMGP0877.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div>Some have said this would be a life-changing trip, and in some small ways, I suppose it has been. But what is more surprising to me is how little I feel any different from before the trip. I think it's healthy for anyone to spend a few days alone, to understand who that person is apart from spouse, kids, friends, job, etc. But for me to do a solo trip of this length, I expected more insight, I guess. I found instead that the person I am out here, alone, on a long adventure, is not so different from the person I am at home (except for the talking to myself). And there's a certain consolation in that. The person you've known, and I've known, is pretty much the person I am. To some of you, I'm sure that may sound obvious, but with all the noise in our lives, it's not always a given. So to those of you who were hoping for an improvement in my character, give it up!</div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6sVA6F5XoHQhgZCQ9Gnjn075_A9DQt8eJ2QB36hgW0dV0feXGK8567uQsfANJatwQ8zfsU6im2iuSE6AF27YhkFwisUJG5q5njZF9AGnsoKAgKTN0qfEjtWpDICHtfTaUMTkODDTZUFg/s1600-h/IMGP0888.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5091573244129034674" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6sVA6F5XoHQhgZCQ9Gnjn075_A9DQt8eJ2QB36hgW0dV0feXGK8567uQsfANJatwQ8zfsU6im2iuSE6AF27YhkFwisUJG5q5njZF9AGnsoKAgKTN0qfEjtWpDICHtfTaUMTkODDTZUFg/s320/IMGP0888.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div>One thing I have to give credit to is my body--it hasn't let me down. No tendinitis, no debilitating arthritis or blisters, no saddle sores, no sicknesses or anything. Sometimes I wonder if my body will outlive me, but probably not. Some of you younger ones may not be able to understand that one's body is not something to take for granted. It does indeed start breaking down in time.<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc39kE6gJASLx8ckT4OWAJq6IoPq7Oo5gvuoAoUw73OQR_zl-cP_Ksx3TqWvR__N_5L0J2rSyUVm7CBD_acs3YrFFkOHLkt1IEQvbzkRZRQQBYVoYDti_1kJyN6y8g8e6G_T8lO1mfuPo/s1600-h/IMGP0892.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5091573231244132770" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc39kE6gJASLx8ckT4OWAJq6IoPq7Oo5gvuoAoUw73OQR_zl-cP_Ksx3TqWvR__N_5L0J2rSyUVm7CBD_acs3YrFFkOHLkt1IEQvbzkRZRQQBYVoYDti_1kJyN6y8g8e6G_T8lO1mfuPo/s320/IMGP0892.JPG" border="0" /></a>Anyway, I suppose what a trip like this does is reinforce the universal truths. And for me, the most important one is the value of love and friendship. So raise a glass with me to a journey almost complete and to the family and friends that make our lives so worthwhile.<br /></div><div> </div><div>Salud!</div></div>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-10254850595290240262007-07-20T13:30:00.000-07:002007-07-25T21:29:00.185-07:00Juneau!!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim3R7lPPG4-jdHMJWwMtb-3TbgN0ukaTneZsrPeUtkVenA6kmJTqJ4xYBCapdYz54faU19jDGf6R9bIaEYLGQdTOi9f9KJPLH7GbPSXp68_dSkVQeYvempv5bdtESytD2_GPtvV4Sdcg4/s1600-h/IMGP0828.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089770551865622930" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim3R7lPPG4-jdHMJWwMtb-3TbgN0ukaTneZsrPeUtkVenA6kmJTqJ4xYBCapdYz54faU19jDGf6R9bIaEYLGQdTOi9f9KJPLH7GbPSXp68_dSkVQeYvempv5bdtESytD2_GPtvV4Sdcg4/s320/IMGP0828.JPG" border="0" /></a> Juneau!! Yahoo! <div><br />The last 2 days of gorgeous weather was just turning with freshening 15 knot wind and threatening sky as I paddled under the bow of "Serenade of the Seas", one of 4 cruise ships docked in the harbor. Float planes were coming and going, and I imagined myself the paddling version of a NYC courier dodging traffic as I made my way through the traffic and under the Douglas-Juneau bridge to the small boat harbor.</div><div><br />In some ways, I feel like I've arrived. I'm still going to Skagway, but if I think of a ribbon that I will break through at the end of my trip, that ribbon stretches from Juneau to Skagway. So if you will forgive the immodesty, here begins a week-long celebration of the end of a long journey.</div><div> </div><div></div><div>I wish you all could be here to celebrate with me. But I know you're smiling and nodding with me as you read this. I miss you all.</div>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-77133477596669129312007-07-18T13:26:00.000-07:002007-07-21T14:47:55.447-07:00Signs of civilization, for what it's worth<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089769203245891922" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUYMM4rkAzq1IdBvznTEiVsojN0dUl_Jr4WZMaHYjdL0bfXhwWQp88hyLSJcURoOPD7pghmnHxupIErNdUmxLEdrfG51L9jpjwz0G4YK7CqgrtmqEgheFtL5OGM4I1lxH8tMNyILpHx20/s320/IMGP0798.JPG" border="0" />I hit the water early today (5am) to keep the option open of paddling all the way into Juneau, some 35 miles, if the spirit, or driving rain, moves me. It was a beautiful morning as the sun was shining on the mountains of Admiralty Island as I crossed Port Snettisham.<br /><div><br />Lots of gill netters operating in this section. I guess the salmon like this part of the coast where the waters are deep right off the shore. I've come to recognize that where the fishermen like to fish is where I'm not going to find any campsites because the terrain is too steep. And that whole section to Stephens Passage is steep-to.</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTDsOBk_pJ3NvirsX6Wt_PYGUdv6Fw9knyOZvlRJAL4WKLAQYzUVegCfNmRMhGUGF4TsCe4-s15oN2W6no07mYw-FF8DgdGPBymmdJZzhEaAKy-bWTqus28_0U9XGj9MuCsMyOOa4FrA4/s1600-h/IMGP0805.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089769207540859234" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTDsOBk_pJ3NvirsX6Wt_PYGUdv6Fw9knyOZvlRJAL4WKLAQYzUVegCfNmRMhGUGF4TsCe4-s15oN2W6no07mYw-FF8DgdGPBymmdJZzhEaAKy-bWTqus28_0U9XGj9MuCsMyOOa4FrA4/s320/IMGP0805.JPG" border="0" /></a>I had an interesting encounter with a fishing vessel as I was crossing the mouth of Taku Inlet. The last of some lingering fog had disappeared, and it was a beautiful, calm sunny morning. The 3+ mile crossing was easy, though the cross currents were pretty strong.</div><div><br />As I neared the far shore, I could hear a boat approaching from behind me. I glanced back and could see it was one of the gill netters not too far off my starboard stern. As it neared, I expected it to turn or to cut its engine. Maybe the skipper is a kayaker and wants to shoot the breeze for a few minutes, I thought. When the boat was 50 feet off my stern, I could see what looked like a young couple on the bridge, both waving me aside. There was no one else near us, but I turned away in case there was something I was interfering with that I wasn't aware of. Maybe I was in the exact spot they wanted to put their net. I don't know. As they went by, at no more than 50 feet, I could see that they were both talking to me, but I couldn't hear anything over the engine noise.</div><div><br />Just as they moved past me, I realized I had better steer further away from their wake. And when the wake did hit, it completely washed over my deck and surfed me sideways so I had to brace on my paddle. And the fishing boat motored on. I could imagine them giggling over their little prank. For me, it was the only rude act I've encountered on my whole trip. I guess you have to figure there are a few like that no matter what world you're in.</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBvu5-HQvR6xM3r_OncOB_Z2pUfxZbc70WUKmUNA6pDdeK_f-c_67IzTrr1F04m3UrLoC4WWUlZhFU1VnKRDBbzBdYLSPDehFnrHMiEA06ezUZHyfAI-si8-raaW6kSy4pdF3ENuL0Uak/s1600-h/IMGP0807.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089769211835826546" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBvu5-HQvR6xM3r_OncOB_Z2pUfxZbc70WUKmUNA6pDdeK_f-c_67IzTrr1F04m3UrLoC4WWUlZhFU1VnKRDBbzBdYLSPDehFnrHMiEA06ezUZHyfAI-si8-raaW6kSy4pdF3ENuL0Uak/s320/IMGP0807.JPG" border="0" /></a>Then I saw that the boat had pulled up alongside a fish tender about a half mile ahead, and other boats were headed in that direction, too. I paddled up to have a word with the skipper and discovered there were 3 on board--the skipper, a young guy in his 30s and 2 teen-aged boys. I called the skipper over and told him that had been a dangerous stunt back there, and he was immediately apologetic. He said he had been asleep below, but that the boys had said they had slowed down for me. There was no way for me to know, but I hadn't noticed a change in the engine rpms.</div><div><br />Then one of the boys chimed in, saying they were headed straight for the tender the whole time. I asked them if they thought I had changed my course, and he said, "No, but we were just maintaining our course, too."</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ldXkygwGXhsKb5twbjkBguW3B2F4aZyVql7cu0L9yOEI6CCSUJGTtYMbHoIs76znImLkw15t8FGZNsmwy5vDqGLoj3wZcPqCkUejyjou_vgiQRViMJ577Jxn_F1HF6n2FKw_C71ob3w/s1600-h/IMGP0810.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089769525368439170" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ldXkygwGXhsKb5twbjkBguW3B2F4aZyVql7cu0L9yOEI6CCSUJGTtYMbHoIs76znImLkw15t8FGZNsmwy5vDqGLoj3wZcPqCkUejyjou_vgiQRViMJ577Jxn_F1HF6n2FKw_C71ob3w/s320/IMGP0810.JPG" border="0" /></a>That's when the skipper spoke up again and said all the right things--it was their fault, I'm sorry, I'm responsible, it won't happen again, you're in the right, etc. And he sounded sincere. I only hope those kids learn something from it.<br /></div><div><br />Teen-aged boys... You have to wonder how so many of us survived, don't you?</div></div>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-55023094193602471852007-07-17T13:23:00.000-07:002007-07-21T14:24:46.503-07:00Holkham Bay, Stephens Passage<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFC2eYzjuV1bZJaGqN7mBBcbDPU0NNmScpBu4ZqAUAhno0oNiIPXJKf0sTi7cX3WMyact2wmvxG7V9vBr75atN1JgJ9DrBKN14i-4XG-udToql9as_y7y53wCgAZzF1RGcPHAi9BE-kZI/s1600-h/IMGP0758.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089761794427306226" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFC2eYzjuV1bZJaGqN7mBBcbDPU0NNmScpBu4ZqAUAhno0oNiIPXJKf0sTi7cX3WMyact2wmvxG7V9vBr75atN1JgJ9DrBKN14i-4XG-udToql9as_y7y53wCgAZzF1RGcPHAi9BE-kZI/s320/IMGP0758.JPG" border="0" /></a> After a wet layover at Sand Bay, I paddled into Holkham Bay amidst a whole group of Humpbacks. The bay had lots of small bergs drifting around, and Sumdum glacier hung over the bay in the background. The view was stunning. And the temperature was chilly. Water temp 44 F; air temp 49 F. <div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQTWfp-pQAA_gprehDyinZwY-UgPivzeb7yA4BfmmvusldM5X88SdkI2pUaC_6UlzZZgp3n6TJHKdOjBhOIduFdo9oCMqoBvkAhiGeU3ypQjhajSz6d7pI1U63mwO76Y9t8f9V7UkDEg/s1600-h/IMGP0763.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089761803017240834" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQTWfp-pQAA_gprehDyinZwY-UgPivzeb7yA4BfmmvusldM5X88SdkI2pUaC_6UlzZZgp3n6TJHKdOjBhOIduFdo9oCMqoBvkAhiGeU3ypQjhajSz6d7pI1U63mwO76Y9t8f9V7UkDEg/s320/IMGP0763.JPG" border="0" /></a>I went over to Harbor Island where a group of kayak rangers are headquartered, and as I coasted the shore, I met 2 groups of kayakers. Tim Johnson and his wife, Vicky had their Kleppers they brought from Maryland and are on something like their 20th trip to the west coast. They were headed up Endicott Arm to avoid the cruise ship traffic in Tracy Arm. Both arms are popular because they have tidewater glaciers calving into the sea. Anyway, we didn't talk long, but they clearly have done some interesting trips that I would have liked to hear more about.</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6KToSBanhSlGOl8gR_uYFusUqE19gOOhGIikCEkG-Xm-KcHjsD5T9AkXAOGC2vbGCteW73zvE1ivj3DZcC0LswXlvqweP9XmUc95NGwN0AGBcZ8Jh0otANJJazIZ6wPahSOAHBZmV1e4/s1600-h/IMGP0764.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089761811607175442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6KToSBanhSlGOl8gR_uYFusUqE19gOOhGIikCEkG-Xm-KcHjsD5T9AkXAOGC2vbGCteW73zvE1ivj3DZcC0LswXlvqweP9XmUc95NGwN0AGBcZ8Jh0otANJJazIZ6wPahSOAHBZmV1e4/s320/IMGP0764.JPG" border="0" /></a>The other group of yakkers were 3 guys from Maine--Bob, Dave and Mike. They had been dropped on Harbor Island by a shuttle boat to be picked up in a week. They were recovering from having made a miscalculation on the tide and had lost 2 bear canisters of food, a life jacket, a paddle (which was later found), and I don't know what all else. But they had successfully scrounged what they needed to keep going, and they, too, were headed up Endicott. They've also done some interesting kayak trips including to the Dalmation Coast north of Dubrovnik and to Viet Nam.</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrQGStb6tZEGChJPQQ3ooTl2mQiCWR65ka48beuctsrvzYo1F_yJhZNPTTELEfLXroENddsuVv072UKKWKMrJcwSDnjNeE0XQ1YL2lbLLyyCEAro96axH_rjufSxQeoyNTjJb3mNhmwbk/s1600-h/IMGP0770.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089762588996256034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrQGStb6tZEGChJPQQ3ooTl2mQiCWR65ka48beuctsrvzYo1F_yJhZNPTTELEfLXroENddsuVv072UKKWKMrJcwSDnjNeE0XQ1YL2lbLLyyCEAro96axH_rjufSxQeoyNTjJb3mNhmwbk/s320/IMGP0770.JPG" border="0" /></a>I found the kayak rangers who have a large wall tent and kayak and gear racks all tucked into the bush and totally invisible from the shore or water. The reason I wanted to look them up was to see why there were kayak rangers here at all. Turns out they do similar work as the rangers in Misty Fjords: they contract with cruise ships to come on board and act as interpretive guides. But they also monitor the smoke stack emissions from the ships, and some have resulted in citations for the cruise companies.</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgmUH_JSCFtvMlPEvt3mtJWCLrhZg8SPKmFl2wycOxrTJU2_PLvDvdaERd2mn0DD1z_gEsKOa97Vinpjw3B_G8JaNriozWKQiARCDGZKhWDiIdGcbbvOn4r4CuWofySO2bc_BLlMsJy30/s1600-h/IMGP0786.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089762593291223346" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgmUH_JSCFtvMlPEvt3mtJWCLrhZg8SPKmFl2wycOxrTJU2_PLvDvdaERd2mn0DD1z_gEsKOa97Vinpjw3B_G8JaNriozWKQiARCDGZKhWDiIdGcbbvOn4r4CuWofySO2bc_BLlMsJy30/s320/IMGP0786.JPG" border="0" /></a>I decide against a side trip up Endicott even though that was part of my original plan. I knew barn fever would set in at some point, and I have to admit that I'm feeling it now. Juneau is only 2-3 days away, and in some way, it marks the beginning of the end of the trip for me. Over the years, I had dreamed of paddling to Juneau, and just within the last few months did I decide to go all the way to Skagway because someone told me the scenery is incredible up the Lynn Canal.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQuW-YEqhdglbZTr-TXg62Xy8BeUkvmoEqCX11bcrql__musP8LStLIU3tcreqLIhCPaXAd1Phs4mlgxh-Jpd6U-bC9Rvs6BAaNwUrnJyZ62AgeZfB9BlQHsGYaC1yOikm4kaeO11h9Vs/s1600-h/IMGP0793.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089762601881157954" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQuW-YEqhdglbZTr-TXg62Xy8BeUkvmoEqCX11bcrql__musP8LStLIU3tcreqLIhCPaXAd1Phs4mlgxh-Jpd6U-bC9Rvs6BAaNwUrnJyZ62AgeZfB9BlQHsGYaC1yOikm4kaeO11h9Vs/s320/IMGP0793.JPG" border="0" /></a>So I passed through Holkham Bay amid the frolicking Humpbacks and continued north along the Snettisham Peninsula. The sun is out, the air is warm, and life is good.</div></div>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-41351500020592663032007-07-15T13:16:00.000-07:002007-07-21T14:27:28.676-07:00Pea Soup<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVXdMpv3PMUDDHknHImK3Yb_6xW_43rIxcEbdk0owc20OyetbDRf0u-wStaOOe7sg1zSHBoXgHbuKUUBIA8hhBRkFvphiMxQX7wBpyxm4aKur4-r_j18dapYxXHnXoujhwTE3aJvDURtA/s1600-h/IMGP0736.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089755321911591042" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVXdMpv3PMUDDHknHImK3Yb_6xW_43rIxcEbdk0owc20OyetbDRf0u-wStaOOe7sg1zSHBoXgHbuKUUBIA8hhBRkFvphiMxQX7wBpyxm4aKur4-r_j18dapYxXHnXoujhwTE3aJvDURtA/s320/IMGP0736.JPG" border="0" /></a>I woke this morning to fog. I had about 30 minutes of this stuff yesterday afternoon, but I think I'm in for more of it today. I just passed Fanshaw Point yesterday so technically I passed from Fredereick Sound to Stephens Passage, and the fog started as soon as I passed Fanshaw. Not sure why Stephens is foggier--cooler air coming down from Skagway? Warmer water? Whatever the reason, I've got 100-200 feet of visibility, and the first thing I have to do this morning is make a 3+ mile crossing of Houghton Bay. It'll be the first real test of my compass skills on this trip--do I add 29 degrees to what my compass is reading or subtract it to get true headings? I discovered soon enough that the GPS map page is a good back-up to the floating compass mounted on the deck. Which is good because the test of my skills was not turning out that well.</div><div><br />Just before heading out into the great gray unknown, a humpback surfaced in front of me and slowly dove again. It's so magical when these huge creatures make their surprise appearances. It reminds me how alive that half of the world that's below me really is. I think I've just entered Humpback Alley because I heard them all night long.</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbd9zZNWyxP4PK5zUa8ZPv9WunjVYKfjHWTyTnmCjxlKOujl1yWhn6zJfh4SxQ7Qfzs0l_8DTXY7WNiCk-YpJjO1KF_qOTpokWIvdXTBHON3rbuVfcDdBXvGLGIK_Qqud17Z226VexTUI/s1600-h/IMGP0739.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089755326206558354" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbd9zZNWyxP4PK5zUa8ZPv9WunjVYKfjHWTyTnmCjxlKOujl1yWhn6zJfh4SxQ7Qfzs0l_8DTXY7WNiCk-YpJjO1KF_qOTpokWIvdXTBHON3rbuVfcDdBXvGLGIK_Qqud17Z226VexTUI/s320/IMGP0739.JPG" border="0" /></a>It's very strange to paddle with no horizon. The winds were calm, and there was a small swell from the north. My eyes would try to pick out a shore line through the fog, and sometimes I could actually "see" trees on a hillside ahead. But then I would look upwards and see that the "trees" extended vertically as far as I could tilt my head back.</div><div><br />The bay crossings this morning went fine, although maneuvering through islands was tricky since most of them don't show up on my topo, and I didn't know if they were islands at all.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_JNKCy0AbPnwukocbuhl9OdaJdRYmYrytNU9mwmRjTc520NGZwZhEguO8ewy7Vitp2y-FZ-kIEmdNUp9e3z4tP-E4QUPBayhTNTVg_8uHKbC5HNwbzqoqR3JojT_lZhOSDuLiO6xvysQ/s1600-h/IMGP0740.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089755330501525666" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_JNKCy0AbPnwukocbuhl9OdaJdRYmYrytNU9mwmRjTc520NGZwZhEguO8ewy7Vitp2y-FZ-kIEmdNUp9e3z4tP-E4QUPBayhTNTVg_8uHKbC5HNwbzqoqR3JojT_lZhOSDuLiO6xvysQ/s320/IMGP0740.JPG" border="0" /></a>The fog persisted for 6 1/2 hours of my paddling while I covered 21 miles of coast that I never really saw At one point, a fishing boat appeared out of the fog. It was a young crabber about to start on a 14 day circuit of his pots, and he was as surprised to see me as I was to see him. No one is supposed to be moving in the shallows in this kind of fog. Later, I paddled by a seiner also, but there was loud cursing coming from below so I slipped by silently.</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuvhjxJG4tC_GocyE-8iUakgAeiL2VL7tXK7NRkvuNIorm6ePTjcR38xalYXQdD27luLQi9RFb-YlvpNPqIYRbrzMiEyULtkI72apMLfxLJX3ZThRT_t2Hqx16HWCG7R1qv_dFLpjc3r4/s1600-h/IMGP0741.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089756064940933298" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuvhjxJG4tC_GocyE-8iUakgAeiL2VL7tXK7NRkvuNIorm6ePTjcR38xalYXQdD27luLQi9RFb-YlvpNPqIYRbrzMiEyULtkI72apMLfxLJX3ZThRT_t2Hqx16HWCG7R1qv_dFLpjc3r4/s320/IMGP0741.JPG" border="0" /></a>I stopped for lunch (a trick in itself to find a spot when the shoreline is this obscured), and while ashore, the fog disappeared and there were 2 seiners starting to set their nets nearby. I had heard there were a few one day openings for purse seiners coming up, and I guess one opening started at noon today. </div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiyQvg8L9EPXuGAmtBWy62wQZdM88k0QOJ9R-QBSrdie-AlF5OyL3tQDOXI_fWTfKCS2Y-3cJPI0_EngwMwmLIIW2gGIzgkjqVu-JCxIwCpu2Jkov_uQHYh_hNZIA8pl2qwootF_PxhBU/s1600-h/IMGP0742.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089756069235900610" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiyQvg8L9EPXuGAmtBWy62wQZdM88k0QOJ9R-QBSrdie-AlF5OyL3tQDOXI_fWTfKCS2Y-3cJPI0_EngwMwmLIIW2gGIzgkjqVu-JCxIwCpu2Jkov_uQHYh_hNZIA8pl2qwootF_PxhBU/s320/IMGP0742.JPG" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj8yoo0PgiE0kCfDS8tH9Wim5KW-TF2SBgAtxwhG9LwCUkNpzsv8ai0J_YUyy_vLNn-DBelCA8Q7TdmhAwT-IdOIjLHvs235aed7x6rgC4X4uxqOP7R791nxo2WeWTt6OaQudwHt9XsSc/s1600-h/IMGP0743.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089756073530867922" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj8yoo0PgiE0kCfDS8tH9Wim5KW-TF2SBgAtxwhG9LwCUkNpzsv8ai0J_YUyy_vLNn-DBelCA8Q7TdmhAwT-IdOIjLHvs235aed7x6rgC4X4uxqOP7R791nxo2WeWTt6OaQudwHt9XsSc/s320/IMGP0743.JPG" border="0" /></a>But what a change in my surroundings. I now was living in sunshine,blue sky, steep, tree-covered hillsides so steep they are just cliff faces in places. My world just went from black and white to color in minutes.</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKKuHgzknmPmAm6nq6qKdr5j6uZpxB7Sig6cooetAL7Q0qC4ONW2ba6BPm-W9GoMlG4mVarypoLH7PwBk3DJ-rbeV85tQ76ojcm2UNeb53Kmf2Cnsxd_zwjDeFtdaMrfp6uhWnEkSCm2k/s1600-h/IMGP0745.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5089756399948382434" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKKuHgzknmPmAm6nq6qKdr5j6uZpxB7Sig6cooetAL7Q0qC4ONW2ba6BPm-W9GoMlG4mVarypoLH7PwBk3DJ-rbeV85tQ76ojcm2UNeb53Kmf2Cnsxd_zwjDeFtdaMrfp6uhWnEkSCm2k/s320/IMGP0745.JPG" border="0" /></a>But this sunny period wasn't going to last as the whole sky behind me to the southwest was solid dark gray. Rain was coming. The sun lasted an hour, then a south wind freshened to 15 knots. I expected the rain any minute, but it held off. In fact, it held off for the next 2 hours of paddling and gave me time to set up camp in Sand Bay, a few miles south of Holkham Bay, before it unloaded. </div><div><br />It was a good day, but I hope I don't have too much more fog. The novelty was definitely wearing off.</div>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-46747753316993195392007-07-09T16:36:00.000-07:002007-07-10T16:50:33.013-07:00<div>I packed up in the rain this morning and left Wrangell at 5:15am. The wind was calm, though there was a SE breeze once I got exposed to the back channel that runs on the east side of Wrangell Island. And the current, if anything, gave me a slight push. Clouds were low and rain was heavy at times, but I could always see the next shore I was aiming for as I island-hopped across the mouth of the Stikine River en route to Dry Strait.<br /><br />I had to get through Dry Strait before low tide because the whole thing dries up then. It dries if the tide gets down to 4 feet, and today's tide at 2:30pm would be right at 4 feet. I was told that I could get through at 6 feet so I figured if got through by 12:30pm, I'd be OK. I calculated a 5:30 start would give me plenty of time, allowing for possible wind and setting current, because I really didn't want to get stuck in the mudflats on a falling tide and be fodder for mosquitoes for 4 or 5 hours 'til the tide floated me again.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA-lDTyTy89sLPrlZjK4saJQECLlVnGAMTZit6Pr3TN58pYgpi8vJRQy9P74DBfnyKNhnxOFdK-6qX-7oj3r4jNwz9IqY-BdM6EUsgs_Yf9Dr0_W3G4gA8X82J_U4iLmbVWACxmhyfqRw/s1600-h/IMGP0698.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085719483020551570" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA-lDTyTy89sLPrlZjK4saJQECLlVnGAMTZit6Pr3TN58pYgpi8vJRQy9P74DBfnyKNhnxOFdK-6qX-7oj3r4jNwz9IqY-BdM6EUsgs_Yf9Dr0_W3G4gA8X82J_U4iLmbVWACxmhyfqRw/s320/IMGP0698.JPG" border="0" /></a>I stopped to pee at one point when I reached Mitkof Island, but when the mosquitoes found me, I moved on quickly.<br /><br />The shallowest part of Dry Strait was not as far from Wrangell as I had guessed, and with a push from the currents and wind, I made it through fast enough that I was actually near high tide. Even so, I grounded out on sand bars twice in the murky waters from the Stikine.<br /><br />Once into Frederick Sound, I could see a few icebergs that had made it to the mouth of Le Conte Bay. The Le Conte glacier is the southernmost glacier that comes right down to the sea. But soon the bergs disappeared in the mist as the rain got heavier and a cold south wind picked up. I pulled the pogies out for the the first time in quite a while to keep my hands warm.<br /><br />After about 18 miles, I started looking at possible campsites, but it was still early in the day, it was pouring rain, I was chilled when I wasn't paddling (I was damp inside my dry suit.), and some spots were on bear trails. So I kept deciding to go a little further. Before long, I was just 5 miles from a campground at the road end at the southern edge of Petersburg. So off I went to the "Tent City" campground.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNRTpLlaWzJnfT34ZdiPD9XRZAQwrGZm6RMfJnBlNh_fvyynSAKgjDaAmhvLxES5YQeO_HA4ySI7_x0gUtYbQsZnm1EA_fx__vUoSbm_xWiBz8V7-2AFZWMQxWi08v1kmzkk9OG1R00E/s1600-h/IMGP0697.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5085719440070878594" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNRTpLlaWzJnfT34ZdiPD9XRZAQwrGZm6RMfJnBlNh_fvyynSAKgjDaAmhvLxES5YQeO_HA4ySI7_x0gUtYbQsZnm1EA_fx__vUoSbm_xWiBz8V7-2AFZWMQxWi08v1kmzkk9OG1R00E/s320/IMGP0697.JPG" border="0" /></a>When I reached the small bay with a municipal park that was supposed to be next to the campground, I couldn't find the place. When I found some people to ask about camping, they said the campground had closed and some buildings were being built on the grounds.<br /><br />So another 2 1/2 miles, and I was in Petersburg Harbor. I found the Harbormaster who let me pull the kayak onto a low-lying float, and before long I had a room in a warm, dry hotel in town.<br /><br />So after 35 miles and a 10 hour paddle, I don't know whether to feel smart, or just lucky, or like I'm cheating to be in a comfy room when I could be camping out in this foul weather. I think I'll go with smart and lucky on this one.</div>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-70268875900954200332007-07-06T15:59:00.000-07:002007-07-07T16:44:30.079-07:00Wrangell<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72ThPYFp4kTOmtLjnCoppN2qeVcUIasj0SrFyiLBInXvVyws-UC0I8-dk2c1ouNClzEa8SA-WBP2SHt1nhgKJXKyQ4ahULCiUu0IiQx0Kls6rAoAxr-RBkmbvPiOIRCZeYFVvSs1PR64/s1600-h/IMGP0691.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084604835928024434" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72ThPYFp4kTOmtLjnCoppN2qeVcUIasj0SrFyiLBInXvVyws-UC0I8-dk2c1ouNClzEa8SA-WBP2SHt1nhgKJXKyQ4ahULCiUu0IiQx0Kls6rAoAxr-RBkmbvPiOIRCZeYFVvSs1PR64/s320/IMGP0691.JPG" border="0" /></a>I arrived in Wrangell on a very benign day, weatherwise. It sprinkled a couple times, and that was it. It was overcast most of the day, but as I pulled up to the city dock, the sun came out and stayed out almost an hour. I think that counts as a sunny day here.<br /><br />As usual, many errands to run. I think I've tracked down a place to borrow a computer so I can hopefully upload these reports. We'll see. I happened to arrive at the beginning of the weekend, and Wrangell seems to be one of those places that closes down on Sundays It's a hard drinking, hard praying towns. A lot different from Ketchikan. 1900 souls versus Ketchikan's 14,000. And Ketchikan gets the cruise ships and Wrangell gets the dregs.<br /><br />Last night, at the cabin, I was pondering more on the impression that, as a camper, the ground gets harder as we get older. And that probably goes for discomfort in general. As we age, we lose the ability to adapt like we could when we were young. It wasn't a problem to spend a night curled up on a rock. OK, well it's still not necessarily a problem, but it sure is a tougher night than it was back then.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFeZ-x6sVKUtRe-VX33yhrYIH4mfUPbktvqoP3zgJLRZQp2RLmOJZTIma9fG5XRtHyvOtnVUsFEqoGhO3sST8WMMy2xpQpm4qWuJ6opPqQ9cGSO1pzhlqkKLY75vqBJl0-ycqWUDqBbDc/s1600-h/IMGP0674.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084604234632602978" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFeZ-x6sVKUtRe-VX33yhrYIH4mfUPbktvqoP3zgJLRZQp2RLmOJZTIma9fG5XRtHyvOtnVUsFEqoGhO3sST8WMMy2xpQpm4qWuJ6opPqQ9cGSO1pzhlqkKLY75vqBJl0-ycqWUDqBbDc/s320/IMGP0674.JPG" border="0" /></a>I guess it's just all about inflexibility. As we age, our corneas become stiffer and we need glasses, our bodies become stiffer and we need yoga, and our attitudes become set and we lose our ability to understand new ideas. So I guess it's not surprising that it's also harder to sleep on rocks than it used to be.<br /><br />Next stoop Petersburg. And I'm starting to smell the barn. I should be seeing Carlie in Skagway in 3 weeks. Boy, am I looking forward to that!bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-56268806488135516982007-07-05T15:50:00.000-07:002007-07-07T16:39:03.897-07:00July 5, Berg Bay, Day 64Since the last entry, it's been pretty rainy up here. In fact, I was looking back at my journal entries and the last day I recorded no rain was the day Cass, Barry and Hipper left. It's rained some or all of 11 days since then, and recently the rain has been heavier and longer lasting.<br /><br />Yesterday I stopped at the Anan Bear Sanctuary and Observatory. Luckily their permit season didn't start until today so I had no problem getting in to watch the bears. It's a half mile hike on a boardwalk along Anan Creek to get up to the falls where the bears tend to congregate and where a viewing platform has been constructed. It feels like you're running a gauntlet as you're walking the trail because of all the bear trails that come down from the hill to the left, cross the boardwalk and continue down to the creek. Seeing any one of those trails somewhere up here would give me pause, but to see a dozen of them in half a mile gets my attention.<br /><br />And so does meeting a bear on the boardwalk, which I happened to do. It was a black bear coming my way about 100 feet away. I yelled and got its attention, but it still came towards me a few more steps before turning down toward the creek. Clearly one needs to pay attention on this walk.<br /><br />There were about 10 of us at the platform and a young ranger who is about to start his senior year at Highlands University at Las Vegas, NM, just up the road from Santa Fe. The rest of the folks were off a motor yacht that pulled in about the same time as me.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjai9N0deffrLZuheInGBclTcDHu1LM3s1CTd2I5brx45d4JD3YeC-O2SClFjzfl3PaA-hDY2luSY2sXAAZcPHY-aQRGipMthsBJJmSrB-jwhTlARXLkIQ5ueWAw3ytbkpszibY5wUKt_A/s1600-h/IMGP0661.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084600644039943442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjai9N0deffrLZuheInGBclTcDHu1LM3s1CTd2I5brx45d4JD3YeC-O2SClFjzfl3PaA-hDY2luSY2sXAAZcPHY-aQRGipMthsBJJmSrB-jwhTlARXLkIQ5ueWAw3ytbkpszibY5wUKt_A/s320/IMGP0661.JPG" border="0" /></a>We saw 7 or 8 bears, one of which was a brown bear who showed up, but almost immediately turned tail and scampered away. One sow had 2 cubs with her and they were being pestered by another female black bear. So most of the time the cubs were up a tree, and mom was trying to lead the pestering bear away from them. The other bears seemed to be wandering around aimlessly.<br /><br />The salmon had just started arriving a week ago so I don't think they were that plentiful yet. I didn't see any bear catch a fish though a couple were scanning the fishing holes.<br /><br />It was raining pretty heavily while I was t the observatory, and I was getting chilled standing around with goretex over thin, damp capilene, so I started back. No bears on the trail this time, but you can be sure I was honking my vocal horn at every curve in the trail.<br /><br />At the trail head, I had to retrieve all my food bags and canisters from a storage room because no food was allowed to be left in boats. I guess they've had trouble in the past with bears climbing on inflated dinghies and puncturing them in search of food or something. In fact, when I first showed up the ranger at the trail head said I had to unload all food and plastic from the boat! Helloo! Just about everything in that boat ad everything I'm wearing is plastic. She relented and said the plastic in my hatches should be all right. Anyway, it meant reloading in the rain was kind of a pain.<br /><br />I was hopeful for a good camp because it was already close to 4pm and it was still raining and my not-so-trusty guidebook said there is "an excellent" spot right across from Anan on the SE corner of Wrangell Island. Well, maybe in good weather when the ground isn't so saturated that it pools in every footprint. If I camped there, I'd be counting on my sleeping pad to keep me out of the water.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4DPafqNaapARb34GKqBRDt9g24kdBQZ8rfJ6hSRf0-AajNCbG5EiVGWTBwpB2e1lJ4Y1dRxqHFkN7jolmrtaIsIOiIZQo1DuqhyphenhyphenrSXG9oaigWKx9SW3QJwS2CJCOOMeEe1ilq1caj4lw/s1600-h/IMGP0663.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084601193795757346" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4DPafqNaapARb34GKqBRDt9g24kdBQZ8rfJ6hSRf0-AajNCbG5EiVGWTBwpB2e1lJ4Y1dRxqHFkN7jolmrtaIsIOiIZQo1DuqhyphenhyphenrSXG9oaigWKx9SW3QJwS2CJCOOMeEe1ilq1caj4lw/s320/IMGP0663.JPG" border="0" /></a>I looked around the adjoining bay to be sure I wasn't missing something, but there wasn't anything else. I decided to try the next spot about a mile or so further up Blake Channel. I figured if that one wasn't workable, I would keep going another 11 miles to where I knew there was a Forest Service cabin. If it's anything like the Winstanley place, there should be some flat spots in the area. The problem was the distance, the time of day already, and the tide which had just turned against me and was reputed to be substantial.<br /><br />The second location was terrible. Both places look good from a distance with 2-3 foot high green grasses looking soft and inviting. But usually, these grasses are growing in rocky areas with poor drainage, and this second spot was the perfect example.<br /><br />So screw it, I'm off to Berg Bay where I'm sure heaven awaits in a flat needle-covered nest under a huge cedar tree.<br /><br />So now I'm wondering how long it's going to take me. How strong is the counter current going to be? How long will my strength and will hold up this late in the day? Veddy good questions...<br /><br />I turn the GPS on and start paddling. Surprisingly, I am doing better than 5 mph. I don't think I've ever done that without a current or strong wind behind me. I think, OK, the tide hasn't changed here yet, but it will at any moment, and when it does, I will have to head to shore and crawl along for possibly 4 hours, but hopefully just 3.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDbjSnnt8F0qZObK5yjFUeH-YyySC16HymsPGf3UjWohdqGpiffFDAEjsxw2IMeXm5SxFfR6nEmTl5qcJNpERrkBxC-h_qnMzzAkesDywrN_wT1wGBoJ2W6uj0GqDOvasuvVs346kYPcE/s1600-h/IMGP0666.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084601769321375026" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDbjSnnt8F0qZObK5yjFUeH-YyySC16HymsPGf3UjWohdqGpiffFDAEjsxw2IMeXm5SxFfR6nEmTl5qcJNpERrkBxC-h_qnMzzAkesDywrN_wT1wGBoJ2W6uj0GqDOvasuvVs346kYPcE/s320/IMGP0666.JPG" border="0" /></a>In fact, it was a gorgeous paddle, and my speed almost never dipped below 5 mph and I got to the cabin in 2 hours. I do not know what that strong current gibberish was about.<br /><br />But that's not the amazing part of the evening. When I got to the cabin, it was unoccupied! It was mine for the night. What unbelievable luck. I knew that was a possibility, but I didn't dare let myself consider it.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijsIx9rI6CG-DQ-P5D6kr6FrBIA_Oafaekhr0vlWIy6anffUzaL7nhyphenhyphenF6zeTVMepbKVeCq3slHVayNEyBAeoB9f6J320sWoOeN626XJlMsgmxJclJcxD4-1sjgzB7WiUkTSd6oi3xFOjw/s1600-h/IMGP0670.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084602314782221634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijsIx9rI6CG-DQ-P5D6kr6FrBIA_Oafaekhr0vlWIy6anffUzaL7nhyphenhyphenF6zeTVMepbKVeCq3slHVayNEyBAeoB9f6J320sWoOeN626XJlMsgmxJclJcxD4-1sjgzB7WiUkTSd6oi3xFOjw/s320/IMGP0670.JPG" border="0" /></a>I pulled up to the little A-frame and thought, what a little piece of heaven. I moved in with a vengeance, but a grateful vengeance. I had wet gear hanging everywhere in that cabin. It has an oil stove that I got started, and the place heated up nicely. I cranked up the heat til I was down to my skivvies and loving my little sauna. I cooked up a warm meal and hit the sack.<br /><br />And that was my 4th of July. And today is the 5th, and I'm still at the cabin. I decided if no one showed up, I would layover here for a day. It's a beautiful spot, and having a day to myself in a cozy cabin sounded great. If someone showed up, I would pack up and paddle the 21 miles into Wrangell.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdQXcHIs9FCBMoHvCnd04852-nOpnwCTsRpr25GdajiKvwRwtAr-i7jAUkCV3bEqZuPffVDNcQTIU9ZZNLTP7iynaoR4NR0WWf7JGGqr3cZu6wxi29CQWP1JSU7cZyF3BbmZaZHGH4N4/s1600-h/IMGP0672.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084602722804114770" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdQXcHIs9FCBMoHvCnd04852-nOpnwCTsRpr25GdajiKvwRwtAr-i7jAUkCV3bEqZuPffVDNcQTIU9ZZNLTP7iynaoR4NR0WWf7JGGqr3cZu6wxi29CQWP1JSU7cZyF3BbmZaZHGH4N4/s320/IMGP0672.JPG" border="0" /></a>No one showed up, though the cabin hasn't been as cozy since the oil for the stove ran out during the night. Cabin users are supposed to bring their own and I guess I was using someones leftovers. But, even though it's been raining all day, it's not that cold and once in a while, I'll fire up my stove and let it burn for a while to take the chill off. I have lots of camp fuel so it's OK for me to waste some of it.<br /><br />So tomorrow I should be in Wrangell if all my stars line up right. I'm looking forward to the paddle.bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-43766770628625688112007-07-01T15:46:00.000-07:002007-07-07T16:25:01.921-07:00July 1, Day after Ketchikan<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr3n58n3LYLS6OPsxlzVLVrK5gZFUx5odI1gahcJFlHO9f3ZXy6slktPWGYqsBV1MT91KtSbN-P6Hkwm6iHXbldjSPKfwUbeQGg6a7Skk-_5xNaMAAdaRpndrPbodj_VcVyK6CNnK775I/s1600-h/IMGP0623.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084598002635056354" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr3n58n3LYLS6OPsxlzVLVrK5gZFUx5odI1gahcJFlHO9f3ZXy6slktPWGYqsBV1MT91KtSbN-P6Hkwm6iHXbldjSPKfwUbeQGg6a7Skk-_5xNaMAAdaRpndrPbodj_VcVyK6CNnK775I/s320/IMGP0623.JPG" border="0" /></a>What a great day this has been. It's amazing what good weather combined with a nice camp can do for my spirits.<br /><br />When I got up this morning,m it was raining and it continued raining through my boat packing on the dock and through my first 2 hours of paddling. I had called a taxi for a 5:15 pick-up so I could be on the water by 6am. That would give me the last 2 hours of ebb tide to get out the Tongass Narrows Then I would do the 5 mile crossing of the Behm Canal around slack tide and have the flood tide to push me up Clarence Strait. All that meant I needed to get picked up at the hotel by 5:15am.<br /><br />Everything went well, although it's kind of miserable to have all my gear spread out on the dock and getting soaked while I'm trying to get the kayak into the water and loaded. Once I was paddling, the rain wasn't a bother at all.<br /><br />There were a lot of seaplanes taking off at 6 so I had to do a bit of jockeying to get through them all. I think a lot of freight gets hauled early in the morning and more flight seeing happens later. There wasn't much boat traffic at that hour, mostly sport fishing boats headed out to Higgins Point to troll for salmon.<br /><br />Throughout the morning the low clouds slowly lifted and I went from paddling in a cloud to paddling under an overcast sky. The crossing of the Behm went well with just enough slop from waves and swell to keep it interesting. By the time I was across, there were patches of blue sky visible. And when I went around Camano Point, a humpback surfaced, arched its back to dive and lifted its tail high in the air. That was a sight to behold. I never saw it again so I assume it dove deep.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHdON_NbdWrJH1NyZ3Gd5fBKOoZFKAX6ovf_6slijyiq49gdJEzZXX2cYuiiMs7_UsAoGMH0QDKEbHaZYdCnUIiqpDUHJC_tviiKyZNwhD5BWzQXYNfJ5CszYCKsUjAKv3sC9l4x_jqmk/s1600-h/IMGP0627.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084598552390870258" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHdON_NbdWrJH1NyZ3Gd5fBKOoZFKAX6ovf_6slijyiq49gdJEzZXX2cYuiiMs7_UsAoGMH0QDKEbHaZYdCnUIiqpDUHJC_tviiKyZNwhD5BWzQXYNfJ5CszYCKsUjAKv3sC9l4x_jqmk/s320/IMGP0627.JPG" border="0" /></a>And not too many miles further, I came to a beautiful gravel beach with a small offshore island to protect it from southerlies. The beach has plenty of room to pitch a tent above high tide (and we're at the high part of the cycle again) and the sun is shining and I've got the whole afternoon to spend in this lovely spot. And there's a breeze so the bugs aren't bothersome.<br /><br />I spend the afternoon setting up camp, having lunch, reading, dozing, repairing my hip and thigh pads in the boat with the barge cement I finally found at a shoe repair shop in Ketchikan. I swear, that stuff must not be imported into Canada because I couldn't find it there, though to be fair, Prince Rupert is the only town of any size I searched. I snooped around the forest behind camp as it was particularly open with little undergrowth. Some big stumps indicate its been logged, but not in recent decades. And I make some brownies, plan the next couple days on the map, fix spicy Thai noodles with peanut sauce for dinner, write in my journal, hang my food bags, close up camp for the night, read and go to bed.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9pRaGZvc9t-wONC83UpPYYfRA2gBT_KRGWF3nm1pEXy7dA3hrjRzUlyTIkXl9mgWn6wLEPH7RhOyx17CIjBVrcVEKhnJWmo2AV3yQL91ZNFcehA9Wk4tJK2pZx9BG-BVkk-7QxxQK1M/s1600-h/IMGP0658.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084599123621520642" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9pRaGZvc9t-wONC83UpPYYfRA2gBT_KRGWF3nm1pEXy7dA3hrjRzUlyTIkXl9mgWn6wLEPH7RhOyx17CIjBVrcVEKhnJWmo2AV3yQL91ZNFcehA9Wk4tJK2pZx9BG-BVkk-7QxxQK1M/s320/IMGP0658.JPG" border="0" /></a>I know my energy has been a little low the last few days because of some soggy weather and long mileage days with little time to do anything besides paddle. But days like today are re-invigorating. Yahoo! Maybe there'll be more where this one came from.bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-60228186842989722552007-06-30T16:41:00.000-07:002007-06-30T17:42:13.741-07:00Ketchikan, Day 57<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWJVIsRYlJuYJirn60pbzALb9v0ACK3Vj6HNcinOxazBjPy46jWv4ZW5cvmm9-3NoqXYtLPziCzYAspbNaV2Uwb5iSG6ZeT9QmNAZRrLTreo4Bb5gsM_y83jU1r2EAB4WQ6X8g7xDrkR8/s1600-h/IMGP0622.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWJVIsRYlJuYJirn60pbzALb9v0ACK3Vj6HNcinOxazBjPy46jWv4ZW5cvmm9-3NoqXYtLPziCzYAspbNaV2Uwb5iSG6ZeT9QmNAZRrLTreo4Bb5gsM_y83jU1r2EAB4WQ6X8g7xDrkR8/s320/IMGP0622.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082007527470212306" border="0" /></a>Back in civilization again after a couple 30 mile days coming south from Misty Fjords. I parked on the dock of a kayak touring outfit here called Southeast Kayaks. Same folks that outfitted Barry, Cass and Hipper. It's a really friendly group of people working here. I got to spend some time with Kim Kirby, one of the owners who I met last fall in Port Townsend at the sea kayak symposium.<br /><br />Another couple days of errands and exploring here. It's the nicest port of call I've come onto during this trip. It's also the only place I've stopped at where I've known someone, so that's part of it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-BB64oXEvgQ-SWVPPFnS51N6ES45J_FrmpPK7Y2EnzjAZ7Xtd32wboYTlf-lTToDDL-z-fbrI3_EKdjkVk37QUfJrzoJwFxXKJJvK_oGvWwqaonv4NHQa8hDMUI_Pk93zp8AoXwhs4d0/s1600-h/IMGP0615.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-BB64oXEvgQ-SWVPPFnS51N6ES45J_FrmpPK7Y2EnzjAZ7Xtd32wboYTlf-lTToDDL-z-fbrI3_EKdjkVk37QUfJrzoJwFxXKJJvK_oGvWwqaonv4NHQa8hDMUI_Pk93zp8AoXwhs4d0/s320/IMGP0615.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082007518880277698" border="0" /></a>Tomorrow I head up toward Meyers Chuck and Wrangell. I've decided not to do the extra loop out west from Wrangell to Tebenkof Bay, so from Wrangell, I'll continue north to Petersburg. If I did the trip out west, I'd have to extend the trip a week or so into August, which I could do, but I realize that a certain fatigue is setting in. I noticed it just before I got to Misty Fjords. It's not that I want to stop the trip and head home, but I don't think I have the energy to add that loop. Before the trip started, I wondered if my energy would wane at some point, and I think that's exactly what's happening. I think if I pare some of the extra side trips, I can maintain a good energy for the rest of the trip.<br /><br />Thanks again to all you who have sent comments and emails. It's great to get news of your lives out here. Take care, all.bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-87283467439787481872007-06-26T16:38:00.000-07:002007-06-30T17:26:33.099-07:00Where Eagles SwimReally enjoying the quiet and lack of traffic up here beyond Rudyerd. I see maybe one boat per day moving out on the water.<br /><br />The highlight of this day has been watching a bald eagle swim 200 yards to shore. I thought I saw some movement on the water ahead of me, and at first I couldn't tell if the movement was just the result of water fluctuations. It was flat calm, but there was still some gentle swell. Then I thought it was a float for a crab trap. I think the eagle was resting then. Then it looked like a swimmer doing the butterfly stroke, but there was something wrong with the dimensions--the head seemed too high out of the water.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZCaXYzl_9HXDSQ72XjWJDeA1WCpQF9KIuQVLd_z4VX0LVh00q9RuK_HHEJIr0OT7GyYjf-vNLiv8tdBuvKU_v-83dRJA7qOYlq9ZkLiHNc9NIQ5f87x3PMmdMPNMjfRi3FxrRmwlFwrY/s1600-h/IMGP0599.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZCaXYzl_9HXDSQ72XjWJDeA1WCpQF9KIuQVLd_z4VX0LVh00q9RuK_HHEJIr0OT7GyYjf-vNLiv8tdBuvKU_v-83dRJA7qOYlq9ZkLiHNc9NIQ5f87x3PMmdMPNMjfRi3FxrRmwlFwrY/s320/IMGP0599.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082006483793159346" border="0" /></a>Finally, when I got close enough to see it was a bald eagle, I couldn't believe it. I had heard eagles sometimes misjudge the surface of the water and get too wet to lift out again, or they clutch a fish too big to lift, but their talons can't let loose so they drop in the water. And I thought the result was the eagle drowning. But I sat in my kayak and watched as this bird flapped its waterlogged wings and slowly moved toward shore. It would swim for a few minutes, then stop and rest for a minute, then start again. When it rested, its head was well above water, and when it started up again, it was strong enough to lift part of its wings out of the water, but soon the range of wing movement lessened, but it kept flapping. There was nothing in its movements or looks that indicated panic to me. I thought I would be seeing this bird drown, but I wonder if it could have swum for another 200 yards or more.<br /><br />I couldn't tell how old the bird was, but its head and tail were solid white and there was no mottled color to the wings so it wasn't an adolescent, though I don't know at what age they develop their solid coloring. And would it have been good eating for a seal? One surfaced between the eagle and me near shore, then disappeared again.<br /><br />When this eagle finally made shore and shook and flapped its wings to dry off, another eagle that I had noticed high in a tree some 100 yards off, swooped down and with its talons outstretched, knocked the wet bird down and continued flying to a low branch in a nearby tree. There was lots of squawking and screeching between the 2 birds. The wet bird got to its feet right away, and a minute later, the second bird attacked it again. Same result, but the attacker flew further away this time. Soon it flew off around the bend and out of sight as a third eagle appeared soaring above the trees. It landed in the top of a tree some distance off, and that's how I left them. The swimmer had hopped up rocks about 10 feet above the water and stood there drying and preening.<br /><br />So what was going on? Was the eagle knocked out of the air by the other one? Was it a youngster that misjudged in trying to catch a fish? No idea really, but I like to think it was a teenager making some risky, flamboyant move too near the surface of the water, and when it finally emerged from the water, its mom came down and gave it a couple knocks upside the head for being so foolhardy. Any other guesses?<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZCaXYzl_9HXDSQ72XjWJDeA1WCpQF9KIuQVLd_z4VX0LVh00q9RuK_HHEJIr0OT7GyYjf-vNLiv8tdBuvKU_v-83dRJA7qOYlq9ZkLiHNc9NIQ5f87x3PMmdMPNMjfRi3FxrRmwlFwrY/s1600-h/IMGP0599.JPG"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span></span></span></a>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-50546149707675172872007-06-26T12:57:00.000-07:002007-06-30T16:38:20.571-07:00Misty Fjords<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2gftWaYPWkyeD1-OJmbYXgYD7Eku1iMJ7ZuJ9pnRGau7WoOVsUCNM1KMC3Zla5kK57RIla91xUwq_aHuMuvf9uysLE_YeVf0RAkHZnlBg_9CyU3BWRhwRwT8K3BmqTla7crA1ZRqbQFk/s1600-h/hipper14.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2gftWaYPWkyeD1-OJmbYXgYD7Eku1iMJ7ZuJ9pnRGau7WoOVsUCNM1KMC3Zla5kK57RIla91xUwq_aHuMuvf9uysLE_YeVf0RAkHZnlBg_9CyU3BWRhwRwT8K3BmqTla7crA1ZRqbQFk/s320/hipper14.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082002197415797890" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzfvLWklN6kVRTxx3Bd6Ml_c8f_PyBnY3GuaZSS9RqKAsay5wTQs__hhMzM3Kf_HwUS53HwgPUa6c4jEqHfePcG_0poqUh9w6VNeKOcQQrbki7FrJhDu_8a7swb85jLfJT9u9dVXDwiNM/s1600-h/IMGP0559.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzfvLWklN6kVRTxx3Bd6Ml_c8f_PyBnY3GuaZSS9RqKAsay5wTQs__hhMzM3Kf_HwUS53HwgPUa6c4jEqHfePcG_0poqUh9w6VNeKOcQQrbki7FrJhDu_8a7swb85jLfJT9u9dVXDwiNM/s320/IMGP0559.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082001944012727378" border="0" /></a>The gang arrived at the cabin just as planned, and other than Hipper's luggage that went to Washington, D.C. instead of Ketchikan, all went well. It was great seeing the old gang. Memories of kayaking together in Idaho one summer long ago kept popping up throughout their stay--fine memories, indeed.<br /><br />We paddled to nearby inlets and even had a 20<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qZuPVprFCUu6FOsMjrk43RNPKF_HDa33GDV-tiLp08xrU96HDHg62Z4VXk4pDwcJdcWDB_GTQzF72x1x1uBh-oQsFdlHLNyFWvBMpuNnIpMIiKyMpHXhiB5luS9MOP_QFzs8aA3fHuk/s1600-h/IMGP0569.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qZuPVprFCUu6FOsMjrk43RNPKF_HDa33GDV-tiLp08xrU96HDHg62Z4VXk4pDwcJdcWDB_GTQzF72x1x1uBh-oQsFdlHLNyFWvBMpuNnIpMIiKyMpHXhiB5luS9MOP_QFzs8aA3fHuk/s320/IMGP0569.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082001952602661986" border="0" /></a> mile day to Rudyerd Bay, the highlight of the park. Weather was cooperative--wet at first, but becoming partly cloudy, partly sunny the last couple days. We also got a good hike in up to Winstanley Lake though Barry couldn't make it due to a cranky knee (due for surgery in 2 weeks). What an amazing rainforest up here. Hopefully some of the photos will show the wet density of it all.<br /><br />I thought it would be a shock to see familiar faces up here so far from anywhere and in the middle of my solo journey, but, strangely, it all seemed so normal. Of course, here are my friends, and I assume they've come from places as diverse as where I've just been. And now we'll enjoy a few days sharing stories of each other's adventures. I guess that's what I was thinking.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriKZmFeLeahotgCCnv5_vg22ZLZkfZEgR3HTuuAPtRnglD1K4k6UlxMPxOkf-EEhW0ZZHoX0DfzEeLrXetOPOajEY3Uj6uipg01O3PJ-WHqoklsDDY9xsfzOA2w9D9lczxJDCU3VJbJ8/s1600-h/IMGP0549.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriKZmFeLeahotgCCnv5_vg22ZLZkfZEgR3HTuuAPtRnglD1K4k6UlxMPxOkf-EEhW0ZZHoX0DfzEeLrXetOPOajEY3Uj6uipg01O3PJ-WHqoklsDDY9xsfzOA2w9D9lczxJDCU3VJbJ8/s320/IMGP0549.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082000556738290754" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Anyway, it was a great time yakking, eating, drinking, paddling and enjoying a wild, beautiful setting. And a few days later, kayaks were loaded on a speedboat, and by nightfall, my friends would be back in their homes, and I would be a little deeper into the park at a camp at the mouth of Walker Cove.<br /><br />I thought it might be harder to get back into the routine of paddling and camping after being spoiled by cabin life, but good weather for the next couple days helped me ease back into the journey.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuTq9L2QfVbo7ovo_rQ33V2i-OE0-hhRSGIoJu-ZZ0QYvzy8xUX4l8UfO76OjJBcErMzaWBOXgY8sMiC38PqweEt9D8QwXh0sOBTRHKlb1BTOSS6A2cGrdiPKdgZzj6dbSJI2SL4G9cF4/s1600-h/IMGP0547.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuTq9L2QfVbo7ovo_rQ33V2i-OE0-hhRSGIoJu-ZZ0QYvzy8xUX4l8UfO76OjJBcErMzaWBOXgY8sMiC38PqweEt9D8QwXh0sOBTRHKlb1BTOSS6A2cGrdiPKdgZzj6dbSJI2SL4G9cF4/s320/IMGP0547.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082000548148356146" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSc8kGN2NB0BxJit35ZHr1s9kvraihUG7_0ABDowqeON28v797mEQcza-zk1VPbpNfMlwjjEXCh1PfUEhWcaxOqAyalvFT4pTvVpYKu9kozFscIgvKsaWg8al8u-gLsFLYdb3sNDvNVn4/s1600-h/IMGP0572.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSc8kGN2NB0BxJit35ZHr1s9kvraihUG7_0ABDowqeON28v797mEQcza-zk1VPbpNfMlwjjEXCh1PfUEhWcaxOqAyalvFT4pTvVpYKu9kozFscIgvKsaWg8al8u-gLsFLYdb3sNDvNVn4/s320/IMGP0572.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082001956897629298" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Walker Bay was the highlight of my visit to the park. It isn't quite as dramatic as Rudyerd Bay, but it also doesn't have any traffic. Rudyerd Bay had the near constant drone of seaplanes flying low overhead and tour boats coming and going. It's only a 25 minute flight from Ketchikan, and with 900,000 cruise ship visitors every summer, there are plenty of people wanting to take a scenic flight. Someone said that Ketchikan has between 300 and 350 seaplane take-offs and landings every day in the summer time.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcT7nsGxmg6d0JTMtmF7VMBolfD3YlE8x90Rj9Ap3LRXzpJsG6b9rgZr0-pLkIYCG7uTGLb6O9sb4VJailvmQqQALpcufVcvNZaB_kj4iPhaSkRRFIWulgUlNLPBV789boJcLrDCbOiP8/s1600-h/IMGP0590.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcT7nsGxmg6d0JTMtmF7VMBolfD3YlE8x90Rj9Ap3LRXzpJsG6b9rgZr0-pLkIYCG7uTGLb6O9sb4VJailvmQqQALpcufVcvNZaB_kj4iPhaSkRRFIWulgUlNLPBV789boJcLrDCbOiP8/s320/IMGP0590.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082005255432512658" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1mbZjiWuNztfyfMJN305sKjU6EtrXfbitoNVdYrGMV0_m5kVM5eJNqrRhMHDkGrvXFQVwwJtATJF-W7RDpyeEeGBACj6knCKvkEsFdQHonQgDWKQaLc-1oZUMbJo9OhHYCg5guPu-Pw/s1600-h/IMGP0587.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1mbZjiWuNztfyfMJN305sKjU6EtrXfbitoNVdYrGMV0_m5kVM5eJNqrRhMHDkGrvXFQVwwJtATJF-W7RDpyeEeGBACj6knCKvkEsFdQHonQgDWKQaLc-1oZUMbJo9OhHYCg5guPu-Pw/s320/IMGP0587.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5082005264022447266" border="0" /></a>I met another kayaker in Walker Bay--Tristan, a young Aussie from the Perth area who is headed south to Olympia. We shared a camp and paddled through Walker Bay together before I continued north and he went south.bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-72909615615921980952007-06-20T14:09:00.000-07:002007-06-30T16:12:00.254-07:00Prince Rupert to Misty FjordsThe good weather in Prince Rupert held for a couple more days. I left Prince Rupert around 6am to catch the last of the ebb tide through Venn Passage. That's a narrow pass that can have fast currents, and I didn't want it's current against me.<br /><br />By the time I made it out to open water, the tide was so low it was hard to find my way among the shoals that now were dry in this lowest of low tides. I kept wanting to turn north around the headland, but I couldn't get close to the headland for all the rocks. Eventually I found my way through the maze and headed north and east around Dixon Entrance.<br /><br />I thought of camping early that day because of the continued gale warnings, but to get to a camp area meant hiking half a mile to shore at this low tide. So I kept pushing along, and the winds remained moderate.<br /><br />I ended up paddling all day long and putting in 33 miles. In the last couple miles, I came across a couple fishing boats, and one skipper offered me a sockeye. How could I refuse?<br /><br />So that night it was fresh salmon for dinner. After the simplicity of my de-hydrated meals, fish was complicated. And I was tired and it was late in the day. There was no driftwood available so it was going to be poached salmon. The fish was so big I had to cook 2 batches in my camping pot.<br /><br />The fish was real tasty, but there was so much of it. In the end, I felt like I ate too much, and I still wasted a lot of it. Not sure I'd accept a whole fish again.<br /><br />And cleaning up after fish is a nightmare. After cleaning the fish, I couldn't get the fish odor off my hands. And then I have to handle everything--set up the kitchen, get water, move the rest of the bags above high water, try not to touch my clothing, etc.<br /><br />After cooking, I boiled soapy water in the pot, but even the next day the water boiled in the pot for coffee tasted like fish. Tasty...<br /><br />OK, enough fish bashing. But I don't recommend it for solo kayaking up here.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie7SbjOFBm0jNIdo3hLnHjVh4D-k31M8OU7i1TKS3llw5VaYuqgbeE3jPAkp3lZ9drj5fk5w01q4T22k-kGyrjHDkMd_xiZtVOyjGeyKsWUrTYLgfgddAtj_97ZeKyKelX2Xyg7jnN0kU/s1600-h/IMGP0515.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie7SbjOFBm0jNIdo3hLnHjVh4D-k31M8OU7i1TKS3llw5VaYuqgbeE3jPAkp3lZ9drj5fk5w01q4T22k-kGyrjHDkMd_xiZtVOyjGeyKsWUrTYLgfgddAtj_97ZeKyKelX2Xyg7jnN0kU/s320/IMGP0515.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081984768438510578" border="0" /></a>Next day, out the last mile of Work Inlet to Portland Canal. Getting out of Work Inlet was like trying to get out to sea from a river mouth when the currents are opposing. Big rollers, some of them breaking were coming up the Inlet. I skinnied over to the right side of Work to hit Portland as far upstream as I could. It wasn't bad over there, and I kept ferrying upstream until I got past the breakers downstream of me.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh356kY_Yk52arSswUYkIdWNc7tQUP5DDwCCqw6XnvsBMq2mkenV6pWlIE-NRtXj05EGSMvvg8ocww8Lgc5MVZ5hKIGm4mQuy19p4H3z7u23Bi_uKPNPa6JG_YueB98AzcMIm1MYAjP19M/s1600-h/IMGP0516.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh356kY_Yk52arSswUYkIdWNc7tQUP5DDwCCqw6XnvsBMq2mkenV6pWlIE-NRtXj05EGSMvvg8ocww8Lgc5MVZ5hKIGm4mQuy19p4H3z7u23Bi_uKPNPa6JG_YueB98AzcMIm1MYAjP19M/s320/IMGP0516.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081985386913801218" border="0" /></a>The rest of the day was pleasant with little wind and with the fog burning off my midday.<br /><br />Next day, I had to get around Cape Fox and the 15 miles beyond that were fully exposed to Dixon Entrance weather. This was the third day in a row of predicted gales, but the lasts couple days weather made me hopeful.<br /><br />But this was the first morning when the water wasn't calm. The wind was maybe 10 knots, and there were rollers under the waves, but it wasn't bad. I had 5 miles to Cape Fox, and I could re-evaluate there.<br /><br />Approaching the Cape, the wind picked up some, as should be expected at a point of land. I passed between Fox Island and the mainland and came out onto another world on the other side.<br /><br />The breakers were now 6-10 feet high and seeming to come from every direction. The wind hadn't seemed to increase, but it was chaos out there. The shore was lined with shoals--some were exposed and some weren't. But the whitewater and crashing surf was all around.<br /><br />I aimed straight out for open water hoping that things would calm down out there. And they did. Somewhat. The wave direction was still confused, but they were also still big. But it was easier being outside the shoal line. My comfort level was being pushed here. More than once, I wondered if I was making a mistake. But the conditions weren't anything I couldn't handle. The concern was how long these conditions would last and would they worsen? I hoped not.<br /><br />After paddling in these conditions for 45 minutes, the waves began to be more regular and predictable. I breathed a sign of relief. Or did I yell, "Yahoo!!"? I don't remember. And within another hour, the wind noticeably subsided. I don't know if conditions in general were improving and therefore the cape would have been easier now as opposed to earlier, or if I was reaching some protection from the west wind from an offshore island. In any event, the waves quit breaking and the whistling in my ears stopped. Another sigh of relief.<br /><br />I paddled all the way up to Foggy Bay before stopping, and I set up camp there after a 20 mile morning. It felt good to have that section done. It would have been nice to have the sun come out t9o help celebrate, but there's a reason it's called Foggy Bay. The place is downright dismal. The whole time I was there, the fog never lifted much.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCVInbMaVtW4kDRNCuGUFd62IeGKqbwOEeM-EQNAoz6xAE7fEKKYVhU_f7Ei0H4WVso4t0hD9qFAfLy21lAA8ERmKo4z5tVr6W7c9dQ9hhgZkpWrTUQtH0kHpDNaxgtmJ3hllaM6T6iPE/s1600-h/IMGP0519.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCVInbMaVtW4kDRNCuGUFd62IeGKqbwOEeM-EQNAoz6xAE7fEKKYVhU_f7Ei0H4WVso4t0hD9qFAfLy21lAA8ERmKo4z5tVr6W7c9dQ9hhgZkpWrTUQtH0kHpDNaxgtmJ3hllaM6T6iPE/s320/IMGP0519.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5081986061223666706" border="0" /></a>Next day it rained pretty hard all morning. A couple hours into the paddle, I met another kayaker coming south. His name is Eric, and he's from the Queen Charlottes. He ferried up from Prince Rupert to Auk Bay (north of Juneau), and now he's paddling back to Rupert. This was his 15th day, and the rainiest day he's had. I think I would say the same for myself. Interestingly, Eric is the first paddler I've met that seems to be even older than me. Good to see.<br /><br />I camped early that day because I found a beautiful little beach on a lovely island just offshore. And the distance from there into Misty Fjords would be good.<br /><br />I set up the tarp and tent as the wind lightened up, and within an hour or two, it was warm with blue skies. The afternoon felt like a layover day to me. Reading with short sleeves and bare feet--now that's livin!<br /><br />But by morning, it had started to rain again, and so far, it's been raining pretty steadily for 2 days. Yesterday I paddled to Winstanley Island cabin that Cass had rented for a few nights. He and Barry should be arriving today with Hipper coming tomorrow. Anyway, it was nice to have a cabin to dry out in, and a dry place to rest.<br /><br />It's going to be a tight squeeze with 4 people and gear, but I'm sure we'll manage.<br /><br />I just baked a chocolate chip cake--and it's my birthday! Yeehaw!bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-91452179407366269352007-06-20T09:23:00.000-07:002007-06-20T09:58:12.262-07:00JUNE 20 -- HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!Just a quick update so those of you following the blog won't get too concerned when BCR doesn't post for awhile. Yesterday I got a 30 second phone call from Rimbeaux. He had arrived at a cabin in the Misty Fjords National Monument in Alaska. Joining him for a few days are Cass, Barry, and Hipper. Although it's a welcome break, it means Rimbeaux won't arrive in Ketchikan until around the end of June... Carliebcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-4349693380957846272007-06-14T12:18:00.000-07:002007-06-14T12:22:33.959-07:00Prince RupertToday is repack day--laundry, pick up food (another successful delivery), repack food, repack boat, repair equipment, etc, etc.<br /><br />Rumor has it that Cass, Barry and Hipper will be coming up to Misty Fjords and spending a few days paddling with me out of a Forest Service cabin. That would be great, and I really hope they pull it off.<br /><br />After they leave, I expect to continue on through Behm Canal and come to Ketchikan from the north.<br /><br />Hope you're all doing well!bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-14481017513357387462007-06-12T16:05:00.001-07:002007-06-14T12:18:33.281-07:00Lots of Tracks, Few Big CrittersThere is hardly a beach I stop at that doesn't have wolf tracks. There must be lots of them out here. But I haven't been seeing bears. That's not really a complaint, understand. I expect now that I'm getting into salmon season, I'll start seeing more.<br /><br />Lots of black tailed deer, mink, seals, tons of bald eagles, gulls and scoters. Fewer sea lions, one whale, and one wolf at 20 feet above me as I paddled close to shore.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2o0d3CqBFspKcELrD5pdqkcwe_WGgNdJJtW3g-FNfUmXkwxDPyOgNiDlWmsbH8BsJHTlmhyXne82fX5hTjI5NeMGmVUxE02hyphenhyphenMJWl4hiVd9QERqe91BkpyrhBel1F35fXPlS340fsMrQ/s1600-h/IMGP0485.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075318302707091826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2o0d3CqBFspKcELrD5pdqkcwe_WGgNdJJtW3g-FNfUmXkwxDPyOgNiDlWmsbH8BsJHTlmhyXne82fX5hTjI5NeMGmVUxE02hyphenhyphenMJWl4hiVd9QERqe91BkpyrhBel1F35fXPlS340fsMrQ/s320/IMGP0485.JPG" border="0" /></a>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-4379152820154435282007-06-12T15:57:00.000-07:002007-06-14T12:14:07.301-07:00Other Boaters on the Water<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoiKHPNmwrQ_rZCm8j48hGqUKYA3doGBvFNnWj6ydpIZezyt4haVrOYOfZ1VJkFGNtpASq30Z1YnFqQdtR5vwtxCxuajJFCbmdzaLRjcpw8Ip7mpAH6vFla7bvxAHMnECkmZqNaGN_xy4/s1600-h/IMGP0394.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075317692821735778" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoiKHPNmwrQ_rZCm8j48hGqUKYA3doGBvFNnWj6ydpIZezyt4haVrOYOfZ1VJkFGNtpASq30Z1YnFqQdtR5vwtxCxuajJFCbmdzaLRjcpw8Ip7mpAH6vFla7bvxAHMnECkmZqNaGN_xy4/s320/IMGP0394.JPG" border="0" /></a>Nick Spaeder, a fireman from Sequim, WA, is paddling from Vancouver to Ketchikan and trying to average 30 miles/day. We paddled together for a while in Mathieson Channel before I stopped in Refuge Cove and he paddled on to Griffin Passage. Nick did a solo circumnavigation of Vancouver Island last year, and at one point he got knocked down by a 20 foot rogue wave but rolled up on his third attempt.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixk2Yj91AIiK4812w8T7VJJhjxRDtXXhy8SooUNhUXZMCv8UrBwjxcKWKYs1Q6S15ifyM_psonCJQHFSCKa1GngGVvu51-A0Z4l0pImv32SXV8lb8AeZj2ZxCNN9Lvauiwzx7rBLJ-Fsg/s1600-h/IMGP0487.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075317688526768466" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixk2Yj91AIiK4812w8T7VJJhjxRDtXXhy8SooUNhUXZMCv8UrBwjxcKWKYs1Q6S15ifyM_psonCJQHFSCKa1GngGVvu51-A0Z4l0pImv32SXV8lb8AeZj2ZxCNN9Lvauiwzx7rBLJ-Fsg/s320/IMGP0487.JPG" border="0" /></a>Chris from Port Alberni, Vancouver Island is paddling south from Prince Rupert to home. I think he's got 3-4 weeks for the trip. We met just as I was entering Grenville Channel and exchanged notes on camping spots where we'd come from.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DhMhLnruZxg40UauC_sQwE92SryDpYsOkB4IB80DqrbH4qiy3nOtSWadQLkuLlhAZ0Dk8-6GjbYuDK8DQz_itQUXZhS0QCPHBgYb5aVbucDGh7K6jbw3GxNBTk5N89-TDOOPkF8CVJY/s1600-h/IMGP0494.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075317044281674050" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DhMhLnruZxg40UauC_sQwE92SryDpYsOkB4IB80DqrbH4qiy3nOtSWadQLkuLlhAZ0Dk8-6GjbYuDK8DQz_itQUXZhS0QCPHBgYb5aVbucDGh7K6jbw3GxNBTk5N89-TDOOPkF8CVJY/s320/IMGP0494.JPG" border="0" /></a>Sue Dandridge and Robin Clark I met further up Grenville. They are rowing a "Merry Wherry", a mostly open boat with twin rowing rigs with sliding seats. I actually had been in email contact with Sue before the trip when I was researching food drop options. I put a message on some bulletin board and got a response from Reg Lake (who some of you boaters will remember from Norcal) who referred me to Dale McKinnon who referred me to Sue, who was planning this trip from Ketchikan back to Seattle/Port Townsend.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCkSufkMTFUZ_uZ0jga75NpZBRLP_ECeMxowi_WElJarHVQpvisQ9Dq1xJFLhjgC2NCBJ5NnejWF4LVwZGoISONkxVUg2wUVi2NX9LbxlsSX3n4lUk1BkWG3U6c9SRSqn4Sq_FafxwFw/s1600-h/IMGP0497.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075317039986706738" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCkSufkMTFUZ_uZ0jga75NpZBRLP_ECeMxowi_WElJarHVQpvisQ9Dq1xJFLhjgC2NCBJ5NnejWF4LVwZGoISONkxVUg2wUVi2NX9LbxlsSX3n4lUk1BkWG3U6c9SRSqn4Sq_FafxwFw/s320/IMGP0497.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrtyjnd9IAeDlg09OIIRkvcOgB_mGIgZUIHrjIwl0uyp3qMXfC-YKBwosV5wK2N9869OkN_RN72GhTLCvwdCuW2MQC0F_pbxt2Vj92_20WCzIRnqWRTpI0zMQZoAOvvTh-9ssNgtiRT90/s1600-h/IMGP0503.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075317031396772130" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrtyjnd9IAeDlg09OIIRkvcOgB_mGIgZUIHrjIwl0uyp3qMXfC-YKBwosV5wK2N9869OkN_RN72GhTLCvwdCuW2MQC0F_pbxt2Vj92_20WCzIRnqWRTpI0zMQZoAOvvTh-9ssNgtiRT90/s320/IMGP0503.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />There is also a couple who I never met, but who were a few days ahead of me travelling north. They are in an 18 foot canoe with a Malamute on a 3 year trek across Canada. <a href="http://www.canoeacrosscanada.ca/">http://www.canoeacrosscanada.ca/</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-2696116997611018342007-06-12T15:51:00.000-07:002007-06-14T11:53:13.207-07:00Gale Warnings in Hecate Strait, Chatham SoundJune 9, Day 38.<br /><br />It started raining around 4am--light and intermittent at first. I wasn't in a hurry to hit the water since I didn't have a long day, and I was hoping to ride the ebbing tide that would begin around 8:30 this morning.<br /><br />I had shared the beach last night with Sue Dandridge and Robin Clark, who were rowing a tandem "Merry Wherry" rowboat named "Barbara Goss" from Ketchikan to Puget Sound. It was a wonderful evening of camaraderie, and their vessel and rowing set up fascinated me.<br /><br />Anyway, this morning I left Robin and Sue as they took the ebbing tide north and I took the ebb north. (The tides met at the bay we camped at. The tide coming in from the west went around the north end of Pitt Island and the south end, and they meet somewhere near the middle on the east side of the island. That's how it works for some islands. Others flood north and ebb south,m or vice versa; and a few flood the same direction they ebb. Boggles the mind.)<br /><br />It was nice having both current and light wind going my direction. It wasn't a strong current, but I could paddle ~4.5mph. As the morning wore on, the rain intensified and the wind blew 10-15 knots, and it got colder. By the time I got to camp, I was feeling a little chilled and the rain was coming down steadily. The camp didn't have a lot of room above high tide, but it looked like enough.<br /><br />I got the tarp up, then set the tent up under the tarp. Then I tried to lessen the incline of the gravel beach where I wanted to pitch the tent. That done, it was time to start hauling all the gear from the boat, which by now was high and dry. I can usually do that in 3 trips--4 including hauling the boat. My intestines weren't very happy today and that was part of the reason I was cold and tired. Anyway, I munched some gorp, changed my clothes and crawled into the tent for a nap.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnV9HeO0-NQf2DRKzczoQJN_fw_1Ojc_13evFZP7AWxClhaJQLKujw_vvtMoDclRDZfmXYKusMmUH80nqMXIjgJf891KUIrIcBu9YHUOjwqNEfLwH4Ii2ORu_CWGk7gPH8h2DuKpHfC4/s1600-h/IMGP0505.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075315545338087682" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnV9HeO0-NQf2DRKzczoQJN_fw_1Ojc_13evFZP7AWxClhaJQLKujw_vvtMoDclRDZfmXYKusMmUH80nqMXIjgJf891KUIrIcBu9YHUOjwqNEfLwH4Ii2ORu_CWGk7gPH8h2DuKpHfC4/s320/IMGP0505.JPG" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZTczmvq-JZgXcbFnEmiWlW9Ucsh3_-AdGWHmFFaLzEl-SsEOt7X0Z8E9fhRr9Tlt7SejW_efS6sI9ZDJFWiR06B4Qx91nycs01l_i_dgLKKSco1trRsQDNdmBWPWX8T5_a9LR6K5Mrjg/s1600-h/IMGP0504.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075315549633054994" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZTczmvq-JZgXcbFnEmiWlW9Ucsh3_-AdGWHmFFaLzEl-SsEOt7X0Z8E9fhRr9Tlt7SejW_efS6sI9ZDJFWiR06B4Qx91nycs01l_i_dgLKKSco1trRsQDNdmBWPWX8T5_a9LR6K5Mrjg/s320/IMGP0504.JPG" border="0" /></a>I felt much better after a nap, but I would have felt even better if this pouring rain would let up. The forecaster said the low pressure center had stalled 200 miles west of the Queen Charlottes, so the storm and gale warnings remained.<br /><br />I'm not sure what to plan for tomorrow morning. Should I ignore the forecaster because the forecasts apply to the coast and not to the interior channels I've been travelling? That's pretty much what I've done so far, and it's worked fine. On the other had, I'm about to cross Ogden Passage which is open to the west and Hecate Strait. It may be windier there. And at the same place, it's open to the east where the Skeena River dumps in, and the Skeena has been flooding for days now. In fact, I've heard that landslides and washouts have isolated Prince Rupert for days now. So I have no idea what the currents are going to be like now that the Skeena is flooding and therefore I don't know what the wave/swell condition will be. And, of course, there's always the shipping traffic headed to and from Rupert.<br /><br />The forecaster's outlook for Monday, the following day, doesn't sound much better. I'm at the last known campsite before Ogden which is 6-7 miles north of here. If I decide the conditions are too dangerous for me to cross, I may have to paddle those miles back to this camp. And the tides are high and rising about 1 foot/night. The highest tides of the month will be here in a few days. I know I could spend 2 nights here, but by the third night, there may not be room at the top of the beach for a tent. There is a camp about 16 miles north which shouldn't be a difficult paddle assuming I can get across Ogden.<br /><br />The high tide came about 9:00pm and completely flooded the area under the tarp. The stakes under water hold, but I'm worried a paddle propping the tarp may fall and float away. I stay awake listening for a splash, but all I hear is rain.<br /><br />I stay up and try to get the weather update at 9:30, but by 9:45 they still haven't updated so I decide to wake up early and make my decision then. Meanwhile, a BC ferry passes outside the bay, and its wake comes within 7 feet of the tent which is already backed up to the bush.<br /><br />June 10, Day 39.<br /><br />I didn't sleep well last night. Maybe it was the nap I took yesterday.<br /><br />I woke up early--3:45--and I could hear the wind blowing in the trees. OK, I'll lay over. It's been raining pretty hard most of the night, and it's still raining. I tune in the weather on the VHF and find there's not much change, but maybe a small lull in the wind before it picks up to 25-35 knots in the afternoon.<br /><br />I sleep in and then have an oatmeal breakfast in my kitchen (under the tarp) which has been washed clean last night. (I did have all my gear packed away so no harm was done.) I did find a paddle had fallen down over night, and I felt pretty stupid for not having secured them.<br /><br />I scout around my small beach and find a new location for the tarp and decide, in a pinch, I could probably do 2 more nights here. I see one spot that may, just may, be dry in tomorrow nights tide. I leave the tent where it is, thinking it should just get by for tonight, but it will be close.<br /><br />I cook a warm lunch and some brownies, have coffee and more or less make the best of the place. The rain has lightened as the day has gone on. There are actually periods of 2-5 minutes when it stops raining altogether. It looks to the east--the mainland--that there is a mix of clouds and blue sky. But I'm to the west where the weather comes from. I think I'm looking at the inland rain shadow from the mountains here on the coast.<br /><br />Unless something changes dramatically in the weather forecast, I think I'm going to give it a try early tomorrow morning.<br /><br />Prince Rupert is a 2 day paddle from here, but I don't know how long its going to take to get there.<br /><br />June 11, Day 40<br /><br />I woke up to the sound of rain on the tent fly this morning. I thought maybe it was finishing up yesterday, but I guess not. Last night, as I went to bed, the wind was roaring through the treetops. I guess a cold front was passing through. This morning the wind in the bay is calm, and there doesn't appear to be much chop in Grenville.<br /><br />The tide came to within a few vertical inches of the tent last night, and this morning I've got a long mudflat to cross to get out to the water. Boat loading is done just at slack tide.<br /><br />Paddling the last bit of Grenville, I stay to the shore since the tide will be against me. I get a good push from the eddy current and I've got a couple large shallow bays that form reverse currents before coming to Ogden Passage, so I make good time. The wind is up some--maybe 12-12 knots--but its from the south so its also pushing me.<br /><br />The strange current dance I was expecting in Ogden never materialized. It's as if the ocean flood tide and the Skeena outflow cancelled each other and I skipped across easily. From there, it was island hopping. I was making such good time with the current that I decided to stretch my expected 17 mile day into a 27 mile day. If the Skeena flow keeps pushing me and the forecasted winds of 25-35 knots doesn't materialize, I can make camp by noonish.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YWFZSeTQZs6MxSQbk60zm7OHrYcog4GIe6uHsX_8uziCH9cET2YR99zEkf73av9quN7Bs2pQDxj9KKnQsfaGygVqDw5RoYn-o6_8_VZJ-2C5gao41aQgnJXKmw2argUmRoTAoWCuQ8Y/s1600-h/IMGP0513.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075315536748153074" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YWFZSeTQZs6MxSQbk60zm7OHrYcog4GIe6uHsX_8uziCH9cET2YR99zEkf73av9quN7Bs2pQDxj9KKnQsfaGygVqDw5RoYn-o6_8_VZJ-2C5gao41aQgnJXKmw2argUmRoTAoWCuQ8Y/s320/IMGP0513.JPG" border="0" /></a>And that's what happened. The winds never got higher than 15 knots and the current pushed me the whole way. 27 miles from 6am to noon including 2 shore breaks. Must be a PR for me.<br /><br />The rain stopped soon after I left camp this morning, but it was overcast. Late in the morning I saw some blue sky and I got some sun at camp this afternoon, but it's clouded over again and looks like rain. But it was sure nice to get some sun this afternoon. It's been cool all day. Around 9am it was 50 F--same temp as the water.<br /><br />I should be in Prince Rupert mid-day tomorrow. It's a 12 mile paddle and a lot of it will be along the industrialized waterfront.<br /><br />On, it's starting to rain...bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-476321238607126222007-06-12T15:43:00.001-07:002007-06-13T20:37:01.396-07:00Butedale<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcnIJIWu44gMHy-10AeHmEhiBgQX4Dri4uAqwrH8aHzgSmafBTAegFhI5VDm54lhodpxqA8GUQe35VCVHx0WE1qcik47EuADWn-VCZYszjpz1uN7lLvTb0R4cUgpmaoYzcz3EzpGJBxqg/s1600-h/IMGP0461.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075313337724897442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcnIJIWu44gMHy-10AeHmEhiBgQX4Dri4uAqwrH8aHzgSmafBTAegFhI5VDm54lhodpxqA8GUQe35VCVHx0WE1qcik47EuADWn-VCZYszjpz1uN7lLvTb0R4cUgpmaoYzcz3EzpGJBxqg/s320/IMGP0461.JPG" border="0" /></a>It rained all night as well as I could tell, and it rained through breakfast, finally stopping as I was packing the kayak.<br /><br />This part of the trip is through the Spirit Bear Wilderness, named for the white bears that are centered on Princess Royal Island. There are supposed to be 40-100 of these white bears as far as anyone can tell. They're actually black bears that have this recessive gene that shows up more than it should in this area.<br /><br />As I was approaching Butedale this morning, a passing tug pulling a barge of sawdust called on <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLjtsoR3f5D88GwGYC6A0HTjS02GDVC6hTHHBfbPjcdURKQiWYbwmD04Q__q519VENPROcb1tAQBN7qxheIP_gY-K1bFLtxHjBOAS0c4_zWfk1y_aDk9O4oGu3Tv2qwB4IieqQEFIxjY/s1600-h/IMGP0463.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075313346314832050" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLjtsoR3f5D88GwGYC6A0HTjS02GDVC6hTHHBfbPjcdURKQiWYbwmD04Q__q519VENPROcb1tAQBN7qxheIP_gY-K1bFLtxHjBOAS0c4_zWfk1y_aDk9O4oGu3Tv2qwB4IieqQEFIxjY/s320/IMGP0463.JPG" border="0" /></a>the radio saying that he had seen a spirit bear about a mile ahead of me, and that it may still be on the beach when I get there. But it wasn't. That would have been very cool to see one of those rare beasts.<br /><br />Tumbledown Butedale used to be a herring cannery and company town. It had plenty of electricity from 2 turbines powered by water from the lake a few hundred feet above town. Town amounted to about 15 buildings from separate dorms for Japanese, Chinese, native Americans and gringos, the factory, managers quarters, kitchen, store, etc. After the cannery closed, the town was abandoned except for a caretaker, and for some years there wasn't even a caretaker. Now the place is beyond repair. It's owned by someone in California, and Lou, the caretaker, has been there for 6 years.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtdhgAMuZDB-E84mPVHdWoty4-IkHDbzQEbtqCwYq44pGuvo-2KC7lg-ST1UdIuCK74OAyCKU-PYnBXcmMYS0DZcxXsetonUpJE8VZds8llneFjnBMV5LrjAHeOyW5cGPBkAv2_24sO5I/s1600-h/IMGP0476.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075314132293847250" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtdhgAMuZDB-E84mPVHdWoty4-IkHDbzQEbtqCwYq44pGuvo-2KC7lg-ST1UdIuCK74OAyCKU-PYnBXcmMYS0DZcxXsetonUpJE8VZds8llneFjnBMV5LrjAHeOyW5cGPBkAv2_24sO5I/s320/IMGP0476.JPG" border="0" /></a>Lou's a talker, by just about anyone's standards. He loves to tell stories. More than once during my overnight stay, I had to cut him short so I could go about my business. But what a kind heart he is. He was out on the dock to welcome me in and helped me lift the kayak onto the dock after I had unloaded it. He said I could pitch a tent anywhere I wanted, but most folks slept on the concrete deck of the pier, next to the work shed, welding station, and his wood stove supply. I loved it--flat and dry. What more could I want?<br /><br />Lou went about answering questions of a couple from Seward, AK who, with their baby, stopped in about the same time I did. There was also a woman and her son from Seattle who had a nice looking wooden trawler. After they left, Lou busied himself with chores of which he had plenty--probably years worth. I set up camp and went exploring, snooping around the herring factory which for some reason had a couple bowling balls and a set of pins. I got 9 on the ball I threw. Then to the power house, or what's left of it, <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzNTr8AzMmZEiyyvnVuc_SCtluxTxordyGGSv2kaHbc59jc6taTN_gcfWMNmfrFwdcGZCx0UjRnR_19UcncHGnnzetbMLcsCXrt0GOdlU5KXiZBfNag7ZvK0Z0f4OfoKuRRJehnIRyI0/s1600-h/IMGP0473.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075313350609799362" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzNTr8AzMmZEiyyvnVuc_SCtluxTxordyGGSv2kaHbc59jc6taTN_gcfWMNmfrFwdcGZCx0UjRnR_19UcncHGnnzetbMLcsCXrt0GOdlU5KXiZBfNag7ZvK0Z0f4OfoKuRRJehnIRyI0/s320/IMGP0473.JPG" border="0" /></a>and a couple cabins Lou rents out for $20/night. The cabins are nothing special, but they have beds and a roof to keep you dry. Then up to the lake about a 20 minute hike up the hill behind Butedale. I'm sure that's the most exercise my quads have had in weeks.<br /><br />The lake and the cascades into the bay were brimming after the rains we've had and with the snow still on the slopes above. I guessed the snow level in places to be about 1500 feet above sea level. I tried to follow a trail past the lake outlet to get a look across Graham Reach, but the trail was under water and I didn't feel like <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9fWtgnwN2m6GfgjSN3srHnRfqRYFuBY4fdkeLg1XRKMXqKdu1p9DLhNykCq1843TsGL4CSdgn4Ut4KXbunA11M3QG1eP3wYg25HiL4CBR20MMRl6mLjDj0JA-tCQVVHrNCzULv3QCUCg/s1600-h/IMGP0477.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075314136588814562" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9fWtgnwN2m6GfgjSN3srHnRfqRYFuBY4fdkeLg1XRKMXqKdu1p9DLhNykCq1843TsGL4CSdgn4Ut4KXbunA11M3QG1eP3wYg25HiL4CBR20MMRl6mLjDj0JA-tCQVVHrNCzULv3QCUCg/s320/IMGP0477.JPG" border="0" /></a>wading.<br /><br />The evening I spent in Lou's place. He invited me to share his pasta with tomatoes and canned meat sauce, but I opted for one of my freeze-dried.<br /><br />Lou has Sirius satellite radio when his friend in Kitimat pays his bills for him, and right now, he hasn't got service. When Lou's talking about people like his friend, he sounds like a character out of Deadwood--curses every 3 words. Lou also has hundreds of DVDs that he picked up at yard sales. It's an impressive collection.<br /><br />He says he usually stays up til around midnight so I excused myself to go write in my journal and go to bed. Well, Lou needed to go out anyway so he and Bert, his dog, and the 2 cats came with me. I gave up on the journal and finally I was sitting in the tent flossing, brushing, making the bed--he finally said good-night as I was in my sleeping bag and laying my head down.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-56922284392686155312007-06-12T15:37:00.001-07:002007-06-13T20:09:29.130-07:00A Little Lonely or a Lot of Alone?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqCpuxUAowIQxAsXddwrxHo1YEoqz3aKzNLtq7Jj6Emoawz6_GvguhDvMqsmA3TyGhCDVhyphenhyphen-Jkb3HdX46H7R0kedesY2CRyCXlO_b1ib3SuEi_pgITkIslJfIG5U_Tb3Tax8XvJRBACUQ/s1600-h/IMGP0425.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075312006285035634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqCpuxUAowIQxAsXddwrxHo1YEoqz3aKzNLtq7Jj6Emoawz6_GvguhDvMqsmA3TyGhCDVhyphenhyphen-Jkb3HdX46H7R0kedesY2CRyCXlO_b1ib3SuEi_pgITkIslJfIG5U_Tb3Tax8XvJRBACUQ/s320/IMGP0425.JPG" border="0" /></a> One of the things I've been thinking about out here is the difference between loneliness and alone-ness. I often think of friends and family or comfortable chairs or warm shelters, or home, and I miss them. And it makes me feel sad and lonely, at least momentarily. But the feeling passes.<br /><br />But the aloneness I feel out here is a whole different animal. It's a feeling that permeates my existence out here. There is nothing in this world of nature I'm in and travelling through that cares about my existence. Neither positive nor negative. Whether I live or die, suffer or <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfZBTYEhw9VBbEGXLkCWE7DKKGF8VMf_jJVfVwIdsUQjqiNX6VomI6brK4VoOWurzWCab9zZzO5WKD0n9m08ejD_stV05gaQgvyKkzblmK5l8lLHeW7xX-3o_Q4MzpS82XgqG5XgcZy6Q/s1600-h/IMGP0482.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075312014874970258" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfZBTYEhw9VBbEGXLkCWE7DKKGF8VMf_jJVfVwIdsUQjqiNX6VomI6brK4VoOWurzWCab9zZzO5WKD0n9m08ejD_stV05gaQgvyKkzblmK5l8lLHeW7xX-3o_Q4MzpS82XgqG5XgcZy6Q/s320/IMGP0482.JPG" border="0" /></a>celebrate, this world has no response; it makes no judgements. One would have to create religion, I suppose, to feel otherwise.<br /><br />But this aloneness doesn't make me feel sad at all. It just seems to heighten my alertness and awareness that I have only myself to rely on. There's nobody nearby who either cares about me or can help me besides myself, so I'd better act accordingly. Is there an element of fear? I think so, at least something close to fear.<br /><br />Oddly (or maybe not oddly), this feeling also makes me value more the relationships I have <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3sGiDSk0DQu4m1i_tkgiRIWZ68a2CapMtaz7NPGyiKsx9jQ9WEov8oTVshLL03bJPL2Bs-48h6-AW_TDeVkzAHD__CoCCNjhvdh3RxCV3E8xn6XShETEwR_2KGNfVjC2kiZD19skehbQ/s1600-h/IMGP0418.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075312010580002946" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3sGiDSk0DQu4m1i_tkgiRIWZ68a2CapMtaz7NPGyiKsx9jQ9WEov8oTVshLL03bJPL2Bs-48h6-AW_TDeVkzAHD__CoCCNjhvdh3RxCV3E8xn6XShETEwR_2KGNfVjC2kiZD19skehbQ/s320/IMGP0418.JPG" border="0" /></a>with people. It makes me feel a tighter bond to my friends and family and more welcoming to strangers in my life. I guess I'm not cut out to be a hermit. Who'd have guessed??<br /><br />So to anyone who's reading this, thanks for being a part of my life, and I hope we get to spend a lot more good times together.<br /><br />Here's lookin at you...bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-36485168437956759332007-06-12T15:31:00.000-07:002007-06-13T19:59:13.304-07:00Route since Bella Bella/Shearwater<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilb_z5MBVz04IZf7WJYCE3HL5AEjBUHJwLrNp9KgLGYcdEKAEMmwsIcCz2NFpbyQF0Nq81LPIBfHlzYslal7L6lrURYDvEy26X1r0K4NIFx2HpE_vdbBWl3o3U5g8zG47_OVULNNOMxbE/s1600-h/IMGP0488.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075310507341449282" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilb_z5MBVz04IZf7WJYCE3HL5AEjBUHJwLrNp9KgLGYcdEKAEMmwsIcCz2NFpbyQF0Nq81LPIBfHlzYslal7L6lrURYDvEy26X1r0K4NIFx2HpE_vdbBWl3o3U5g8zG47_OVULNNOMxbE/s320/IMGP0488.JPG" border="0" /></a> For those of you who have been trying to follow my progress on the maps on an early post, here's a description of my route from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Shearwater</span>/Bella Bella.<br /><br />Out of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Shearwater</span> past the Dryad lighthouse as I paddle west toward <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Milbanke</span> Sound. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Milbanke</span> is known for having some snotty weather, but luckily there are sneak routes through the islands on the way to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Mathieson</span> Channel. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Heiltsuk</span> cabin is at the very bottom of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">Mathieson</span>.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqd39XT8JI3WYmP5uw9o2rkcbdVQ34VoLvN59jCpRpI1tptIQom4Gk9j2JpoN5fMYC-DaoUauOHDaw73N_spc3ajNAhw7ubCUy-k9VT7X-oHZkSzuE-1Srd2J2MHeJFOXnbn_z-AEyTq4/s1600-h/IMGP0453.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075310515931383890" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqd39XT8JI3WYmP5uw9o2rkcbdVQ34VoLvN59jCpRpI1tptIQom4Gk9j2JpoN5fMYC-DaoUauOHDaw73N_spc3ajNAhw7ubCUy-k9VT7X-oHZkSzuE-1Srd2J2MHeJFOXnbn_z-AEyTq4/s320/IMGP0453.JPG" border="0" /></a>Then up <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Mathieson</span> for a short distance before cutting back west through Jackson Passage and Jackson Narrows into <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Finlayson</span> Channel. I camped at the north end of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">Finlayson</span> before heading through <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">Heikish</span> Narrows into lower Princess Royal Channel (Graham Reach) to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Butedale</span>, then continuing through Fraser Reach, known for its vertical shores and lack of camps or even places to step out of the boat, to McKay and Wright Sound.<br /><br />Then up through the infamous Grenville Channel. Straight, narrow, few camps, and a<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0sNpQxWo-61ZBzLoAYGw2ZF5KvHw5RulJu0zZ6mMGnZSIGyRn4bHJ18v9ullwTSsCtqexqrcOu0_MzdX0H20Xz7VswAIlUtoIkETBxAwG61QwQOOaJQwzKg2xNg-de_bglXe9dzjmyo/s1600-h/IMGP0451.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075310520226351202" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0sNpQxWo-61ZBzLoAYGw2ZF5KvHw5RulJu0zZ6mMGnZSIGyRn4bHJ18v9ullwTSsCtqexqrcOu0_MzdX0H20Xz7VswAIlUtoIkETBxAwG61QwQOOaJQwzKg2xNg-de_bglXe9dzjmyo/s320/IMGP0451.JPG" border="0" /></a>great funnel for winds. The end of Grenville is at the junction of Ogden Passage and the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">Skeena</span> River before skirting <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">Chatham</span> Sound into Prince Rupert.<br /><br />I know that sounds pretty straightforward, but that was 12 days <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">enroute</span>.bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-59968584307781848792007-06-12T15:24:00.000-07:002007-06-13T19:44:11.870-07:00What's This??<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfaylolAZf1Aj8lQP0yf6m1_UxozPBXgQpxeow7veAH1ClH-lBacez4CNEjfUbT_SRjXq1lD2pd0ZT70UH75hIIu4ZdLPYQ18jANhnJJAVtynhMBw90UFGweeb52ZwDjehu1g0jMrVSrw/s1600-h/IMGP0340.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075308282548389922" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfaylolAZf1Aj8lQP0yf6m1_UxozPBXgQpxeow7veAH1ClH-lBacez4CNEjfUbT_SRjXq1lD2pd0ZT70UH75hIIu4ZdLPYQ18jANhnJJAVtynhMBw90UFGweeb52ZwDjehu1g0jMrVSrw/s320/IMGP0340.JPG" border="0" /></a> Tracks of camper chasing his tent that's blowing away with the wind.<br /><br /><br /><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p><br /> </p><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhX6Chn3kJLk0oQgtsROEP51QU2fFAQ7H5oC1qrxp4N9M-PX9r81h2DNP2o6IfWyNFDRONDwiyZ97QKZQqKG0KmGdvxheQbJ09TmoeQcLOicdBACrgdwHPEdwIcQFeucIk850r1v1ZXEE/s1600-h/IMGP0338.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075308286843357234" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhX6Chn3kJLk0oQgtsROEP51QU2fFAQ7H5oC1qrxp4N9M-PX9r81h2DNP2o6IfWyNFDRONDwiyZ97QKZQqKG0KmGdvxheQbJ09TmoeQcLOicdBACrgdwHPEdwIcQFeucIk850r1v1ZXEE/s320/IMGP0338.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Nice camp, though.bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-39231373503505895022007-06-12T15:07:00.000-07:002007-06-13T19:41:50.942-07:0010th Mtn Cabin on BC Coast?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9GW52JafgSG4mzJB7nlS0b-aPOan5XK-dH_HAEoT9mPbGfqNTyBdQY8kCC4cUD4UejNVmv_BRtBTNc0rW7e8t3MkuuTxgatXwVV3omgdIsq4hagTEApu4PxCExnyw0FhoY4WjslHLOfg/s1600-h/IMGP0369.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075305031258146786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9GW52JafgSG4mzJB7nlS0b-aPOan5XK-dH_HAEoT9mPbGfqNTyBdQY8kCC4cUD4UejNVmv_BRtBTNc0rW7e8t3MkuuTxgatXwVV3omgdIsq4hagTEApu4PxCExnyw0FhoY4WjslHLOfg/s320/IMGP0369.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />One day out of Shearwater I came upon this cabin built by the Heiltsuk people and open to travellers and to the youth of the Heiltsuk Nation so they might learn more about their peoples traditions. And what a great place it is.<br /><br />I got there on a beautiful afternoon and sat on the deck watching the water flow in the narrows in front of the cabin.<br /><br />The cabin with the creek running beside it, and the outhouse, and the bush all around it reminds me of the cabins Carlie and I stayed in on Shuyak <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCfygJ72hSzMyK7a1lEhT4SGuXSA0RvD8-762U2qWKY7uDo5K8U0HD3hgRtNYZPaOBjL-dV9CJ9G3ZPAvCwy6GA1ZB6nrmy8N7gEEWJDL4r3AzewccdRfcFzueA3Vbdo_p1Ck4wZtzb5s/s1600-h/IMGP0372.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075306208079185906" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCfygJ72hSzMyK7a1lEhT4SGuXSA0RvD8-762U2qWKY7uDo5K8U0HD3hgRtNYZPaOBjL-dV9CJ9G3ZPAvCwy6GA1ZB6nrmy8N7gEEWJDL4r3AzewccdRfcFzueA3Vbdo_p1Ck4wZtzb5s/s320/IMGP0372.JPG" border="0" /></a>Island off Kodiak a few summers ago.<br /><br />I can only imagine how much more kayak travel there would be if there were more cabins like this available along the Inside Passage. Hell, if there were just more decent camping spots available, this route would be more popular. But it would also be different. It would take some of the wilderness away. Just like my using guide books has taken some of the wildness out of my journey. So who's to say? Should this route be more accessible or less accessible than it is now?<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4wuEVjRi6ADde04QUy8yj1oNo76oviBLBFJgoAineJVc2o8fdbZ3KMVsV5WF9Hijx1HFoRi0_46k3D7JNBo9c8-kybtr9ZeDyohIncil-QAp2Rzo80UWTP4oZz2SjRuFHfN-QejTjaPg/s1600-h/IMGP0393.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075307152971991058" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4wuEVjRi6ADde04QUy8yj1oNo76oviBLBFJgoAineJVc2o8fdbZ3KMVsV5WF9Hijx1HFoRi0_46k3D7JNBo9c8-kybtr9ZeDyohIncil-QAp2Rzo80UWTP4oZz2SjRuFHfN-QejTjaPg/s320/IMGP0393.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC3n9bYuROAROsajnEMjy4ysN6jEgJdRfNpfUG1_jfw63Gs4ZlX7JigmQySfXoN_FHgCDu9J7C6BOrF-cACcj1dUa5ZYXB6bDOH0YS6Gtqztv8VNspmEgooe9Wdho2W22EG0RO4Jq3sEM/s1600-h/IMGP0381.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075306689115523074" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC3n9bYuROAROsajnEMjy4ysN6jEgJdRfNpfUG1_jfw63Gs4ZlX7JigmQySfXoN_FHgCDu9J7C6BOrF-cACcj1dUa5ZYXB6bDOH0YS6Gtqztv8VNspmEgooe9Wdho2W22EG0RO4Jq3sEM/s320/IMGP0381.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4wuEVjRi6ADde04QUy8yj1oNo76oviBLBFJgoAineJVc2o8fdbZ3KMVsV5WF9Hijx1HFoRi0_46k3D7JNBo9c8-kybtr9ZeDyohIncil-QAp2Rzo80UWTP4oZz2SjRuFHfN-QejTjaPg/s1600-h/IMGP0393.JPG"></a></div></div></div>bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4349396901156156917.post-41531022749253534512007-05-31T22:08:00.000-07:002007-06-12T16:23:57.038-07:00My Ride<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgADDcl5aA0Tozf6OnT2rhwq14kg0YQlXWIJmsHBdR81fh_sndfQregWUJoiKphyphenhyphenoAVUG0F4dEoGD2VeXErnLPGFww-i1SsbP9u94Cwkth8p9STCHSaJtvHCKH_e1s48Y8vahnkI8aIQq0/s1600-h/My+Ride+(Linda+Ward).bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5075321317774133634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgADDcl5aA0Tozf6OnT2rhwq14kg0YQlXWIJmsHBdR81fh_sndfQregWUJoiKphyphenhyphenoAVUG0F4dEoGD2VeXErnLPGFww-i1SsbP9u94Cwkth8p9STCHSaJtvHCKH_e1s48Y8vahnkI8aIQq0/s320/My+Ride+(Linda+Ward).bmp" border="0" /></a> Who would want to pimp this one?<br /><br /><br /><br />Thanks to Linda Ward for this nice shot at Shearwater.bcrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15817003019541102724noreply@blogger.com0